Vatican City & stopping for Lunch

The one tour we booked while in Rome was to visit the Vatican City, and we were very glad we did. We were up bright and early, and assembled about 8:30. After we were all stamped we headed on over ... the crowds at this time of the morning to walk in were already in their thousands, winding around and around the streets. We got to walk straight on in.



It was a very informative and fascinating morning. Our guide was lovely, and very knowledgeable as we walked throughout the Vatican. Our favorite part was definitely the Geography or Map room.



By about 1pm, the place was getting to packed to even move, and when the tour ended we decided to head off ... we were hungry, anyways. We headed off in search of Del Frate, which was one of our dining picks for the surrounding area. 5 minutes on foot and we spot it, it's pretty packed with businessmen and lunching ladies.



Tartara di tonno alla Catalana is our first dish we select from Crudi. Chunks of tuna are diced along with plump tomatoes and boiled potatoes that are all dressed with a pungent olive oil, salt, pepper & lemon juice. So simple, but each ingredient is so fresh.



Carpaccio di Manzo, or beef carpaccio is next to arrive. Thin slices of beef that are blanketed over a mound of rocket leaves, that has chunks of parmesan and roasted walnuts scattered on top and is generously dressed with lemon and olive oil.



From the Primi Piatti section we cannot resist the Risotto radicchio, gorgonzola e noci. The risotto is a golden brown with specks of the red radicchio throughout. Each grain is plump and coated in a walnut like paste that is the delightful sauce, with a robust punch from the gorgonzola. A beautiful combination of flavors ...



I Secondi course is Spezzato di Vitello alla Genovese. This is a light veal stew from Genovese. Chunks of tender veal sit in a mild tomato & basil sauce. This is accompanied by a side dish of Patate al forno, crisp slices of potato that are roasted with rosemary and salt.




Now with content bellies, we were ready to brave the crowds again ...

Fei, Sapporo

Sometimes, when you've done enough good deeds and your karma meter is sitting on full, life pays you back with an introduction to a place such as Fei. It's the sort of place you could walk past everyday for a year and still not know it's there, un-signposted and down a back ally off a back street, it even took M1 two times to find it and he's been there before.......several times.



The interior is a blend of of New York speakeasy, rustic country house and art space, with exposed beams, chandeliers made from full campari soda bottles and walls fixed with egg trays full of half egg shells and dandelion flowers, all bits of a little weird mixing to make just right.



Quickly sat (bookings essential) we give the menu the once over, broken down Italian style into cold antipasti, warm antipasti, first plates (pasta) and second plates (meat). There's such a great selection that we decide to go plate by plate with a few from each section.

The first plate to set the tone for the evening was the Hokkaido venison prosciutto, slices of soft venison slightly cured and just melt in the mouth, with baby dressed greens to cut it which disappeared in a flash.



The next dish lasted only slightly longer but this was probably only because as it was placed on the table we were transfixed with it's beauty, I mean really this artists palette of tiny baby vegetables surrounding a small bowl of bagna cauda, no one wanted to break the spell, but as soon as it snapped we were all in. The bagna cauda was fantastic! A rich heady blend of garlic and anchovy and the mix of perfectly blanched veg was crazy, baby beans, yellow and purple carrot, baby horseradish, snap peas, tiny Roma tomato's and what looked like a small cape gooseberry. For me this was the dish of the night. Absolutely outstanding!



Next came out our warm antipasto a fritto misto of little fish and maitake mushroom, covered with a quick squeeze of lemon they were snapped up.



Then shaako which we ordered without any one being able to explain what they were, "ahhhhh mantis shrimp, oishii", we'd tried these bad boys before in Thailand. Teamed up with a roast tomato sauce and a smoky eggplant halves, these tasty morsels immediately jumped into second place for the evening.



We then flicked onto a rabbit terrine, we had to have a go as rabbit is a bit of an oddity here in japan, well on menus anyway (we saw a girl walking her rabbit on a lead the other day).

The terrine in a nice fat slab wrapped in bacon it's well seasoned and a great match to the wedge of fruit bread we have with it.



Getting into our rhythm now with make short work of a perfectly cooked marron (chestnut) risotto.



We then move on to roasted Hokkaido venison with caramelised pears and a wild mountain grape sauce. Mountain grapes are tiny and it would have taken not a small amount to even make the sauce on our plate, it is an excellent match for the venison with is cooked just medium rare and again just melt in the mouth.



For dessert we each decide to go our own way and maybe share a bite......maybe. Kat has the creme caramel, delectable is the word used and it's a tough job to get past her spoon defence to confirm, but it is just that.



M1 has a pistachio gelato. Bright pistachio green in colour the flavor is intense and rich, you really couldn't eat more than the scoop given.



I go for a martini glass of truffles, five (well three by the time I'm forced to share), covered in bitter cocoa and definitely moreish.



With great food like this and warm friendly staff it's no wonder bookings are recommended.



As we leave I'm trying so hard not to fall in to contented relaxation and remember a few landmarks, it doesn't happen. They'll just have to excuse us if we're a few hours late next time.

Fei
Tel: 011 219 8244
Again, no chance of an address or even directions ... Sorry!
Open 17:00 Close 26:00 (That's what it say's on the card)