K&K
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Check please.
And so ends our trip to Italy, I'm pretty sure it won't be our last. We'd like to thank all our fellow foodies who handed out so freely so much great advice and info, especially Rachel and Logan of Boots in the oven, for their epic Frienze and surrounds details.
K&K
K&K
Saturday, April 3, 2010
The Brakes and Clutches
Apertivo. It's the fine Italian tradition of heading for one or two and maybe a few more pre-dinner drinkies. We headed out one night to the hip Roman 'burb of Trastervere to a former mechanics shop now swinging bar called Freni e Frizioni (Brakes and clutches). We arrived not long after opening to find the place already jumping.
It may have been due to the excellent drinks we were poured (Negroni and Pims cup)
or perhaps the fact that the free nibbles usually on offer during the apertivo hour was more a-not-so-small buffet. Marinated chickpeas, roasted vegetables, little bits of cured meats and a great variety of dipping sauces meant it was ridiculously hard to not spoil our appetite.
When the crowd got to big it just spilled out onto the neighbouring terrace and surrounds.
It may have been due to the excellent drinks we were poured (Negroni and Pims cup)
or perhaps the fact that the free nibbles usually on offer during the apertivo hour was more a-not-so-small buffet. Marinated chickpeas, roasted vegetables, little bits of cured meats and a great variety of dipping sauces meant it was ridiculously hard to not spoil our appetite.
When the crowd got to big it just spilled out onto the neighbouring terrace and surrounds.
Was hard to pull our selves away, but it was just supposed to be pre dinner.
Freni e Frizioni
Via del Politeama, 4
00153 Roma, Italy
06 58334210
Freni e Frizioni
Via del Politeama, 4
00153 Roma, Italy
06 58334210
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Not for the squeamish
Quinto Quarto, the fifth quarter is a style of Roman cuisine that grew to prominence at the end of the last century. In the Testaccio suburb of Rome resided one of Europe's largest slaughterhouses, here skilled butchers broke down cows splitting them in half and then in half again, four quarters, leaving only the skin, head, tail and offal. This fifth quarter of meat was given to the butchers to supplement there not so great pay. As well as utilising the offal themselves they often sold it to the local restaurants who began to create culinary masterpieces around the fifth quarter. Within half a century the inferior cooking of the butchers had become renown across the city being sought out by connoisseurs and firmly embedded in the Roman culinary repertoire. Today we eat some history.......
Checchino-dal-1887 as stated, started cooking the noble fifth quarter back in 1887 and is still run by the same family five generations on. That's 122 years of offal cooking experience. Should be good by now then.
When we arrived in the the old slaughterhouse district we quickly found the restaurant and just as quickly were told they did not open for another half an hour. A waiter said we could sit at one of the outside tables as they finished setting up and brought us some water and the menu to peruse.
As a guy who has to order offal if it's on the menu, I didn't know where to start the menu was ninety percent offal, my heads going to explode. After not too long a wait we're ushered into the dining room by our very formal white coated waiter. Having previewed the menu it was quickly on to a couple of campari and sodas and straight onto the good stuff.
First; Testina di Vitello, a terrine of calves head, boiled, boned, dressed with lemon and spices and pressed before being thinly sliced and dressed with a generous splash of olive oil as well as a good whack of tapenade. A whole lot of deliciousness, the ultra richness of the calf gelatin cut nicely with the lemon and olive oil.
Next up; Insalada di Zampi, a salad of veal trotter, again boiled and boned before being tossed all warm and gelatinous with beans, braised carrots and celery and a wicked salsa verde.
The meat was delicate and oh so rich, the salsa, tart and zippy. It was a salad that was hard to pause eating.
As we finished off of campari's we moved on to a bottle of wine, with each bottle order a marble topped trolley is wheeled to the table, glasses and bottle brought to the trolley, opened tasted and poured. Really cool and it happened the same for the guy drinking the stupidly expensive bottle next to us as our little half bottle. No predigious here.
Keeping in the offaly theme the next dish was a real doozy. Rigatone con Pajata. This was Rigatone (obviously) in a tomato sauce with milk fed lambs intestines. The key apparently is to not wash the intestines so they still contain the milk whey from mum. The plate arrived and at first it looked like a plate of pasta with some fat worms on top. Then the first taste, it was like eating tiny sheep's milk cheese sausages - oh so good! Oh how I praise the genius/lazy chef who first served unwashed lambs intestines.
When my new found favourite pasta had disappeared (all too fast) we got to the tail of this matter. Coda all Vaccinara or oxtail braised with pine nuts raisins and chocolate. A small oval plate with two giant pieces of tail all covered in the pine-nutty, chocolate infused sauce. This just looked rich from the start (so much richness from such poor food) we were beginning to think we may have over extended ourselves here.
Luckily we had a plate of Abbacchio all cacciatora, baby lamb braised in white wine, wine vinegar, rosemary and red pepper to chase it down. No kidding really. The lamb was oh-so-tender and the the flavors delicate. Along with the chicory sauteed with garlic and pepper it did well to take an edge off the mega rich meal we had just had.
After a small sit Kat took a wander over to the cheese trolleys (one for stinkies and one for the rest) to see if there might be any thing that took our fancy. Our fancy was took by a beautiful slab of Gorgonzola drizzled with honey and accompanied by a glass of masala.
Just quietly we might have also had a Torta stracciatella; chocolate ricotta and almond cake, with a quite odd chocolate drizzle around the plate, and an orange semifreddo. Both quite tasty.
After the twin efforts of eating such a feast and absorbing all that history, we really felt like we earned our siesta that day.....
Checchino since 1887
Via di Monte Testaccio, 30 00153 Rome
T: 0039 065743816 / 0039 065746318
E: checchino_roma@tin.it
Lunch; 12:30 to 3pm, last orders 2:45
Dinner; 8pm to midnight, last orders 11:45
closed Sunday and Monday
closed in August and one week between Christmas and New Year's Eve
Checchino-dal-1887 as stated, started cooking the noble fifth quarter back in 1887 and is still run by the same family five generations on. That's 122 years of offal cooking experience. Should be good by now then.
When we arrived in the the old slaughterhouse district we quickly found the restaurant and just as quickly were told they did not open for another half an hour. A waiter said we could sit at one of the outside tables as they finished setting up and brought us some water and the menu to peruse.
As a guy who has to order offal if it's on the menu, I didn't know where to start the menu was ninety percent offal, my heads going to explode. After not too long a wait we're ushered into the dining room by our very formal white coated waiter. Having previewed the menu it was quickly on to a couple of campari and sodas and straight onto the good stuff.
First; Testina di Vitello, a terrine of calves head, boiled, boned, dressed with lemon and spices and pressed before being thinly sliced and dressed with a generous splash of olive oil as well as a good whack of tapenade. A whole lot of deliciousness, the ultra richness of the calf gelatin cut nicely with the lemon and olive oil.
Next up; Insalada di Zampi, a salad of veal trotter, again boiled and boned before being tossed all warm and gelatinous with beans, braised carrots and celery and a wicked salsa verde.
The meat was delicate and oh so rich, the salsa, tart and zippy. It was a salad that was hard to pause eating.
As we finished off of campari's we moved on to a bottle of wine, with each bottle order a marble topped trolley is wheeled to the table, glasses and bottle brought to the trolley, opened tasted and poured. Really cool and it happened the same for the guy drinking the stupidly expensive bottle next to us as our little half bottle. No predigious here.
Keeping in the offaly theme the next dish was a real doozy. Rigatone con Pajata. This was Rigatone (obviously) in a tomato sauce with milk fed lambs intestines. The key apparently is to not wash the intestines so they still contain the milk whey from mum. The plate arrived and at first it looked like a plate of pasta with some fat worms on top. Then the first taste, it was like eating tiny sheep's milk cheese sausages - oh so good! Oh how I praise the genius/lazy chef who first served unwashed lambs intestines.
When my new found favourite pasta had disappeared (all too fast) we got to the tail of this matter. Coda all Vaccinara or oxtail braised with pine nuts raisins and chocolate. A small oval plate with two giant pieces of tail all covered in the pine-nutty, chocolate infused sauce. This just looked rich from the start (so much richness from such poor food) we were beginning to think we may have over extended ourselves here.
Luckily we had a plate of Abbacchio all cacciatora, baby lamb braised in white wine, wine vinegar, rosemary and red pepper to chase it down. No kidding really. The lamb was oh-so-tender and the the flavors delicate. Along with the chicory sauteed with garlic and pepper it did well to take an edge off the mega rich meal we had just had.
After a small sit Kat took a wander over to the cheese trolleys (one for stinkies and one for the rest) to see if there might be any thing that took our fancy. Our fancy was took by a beautiful slab of Gorgonzola drizzled with honey and accompanied by a glass of masala.
Just quietly we might have also had a Torta stracciatella; chocolate ricotta and almond cake, with a quite odd chocolate drizzle around the plate, and an orange semifreddo. Both quite tasty.
After the twin efforts of eating such a feast and absorbing all that history, we really felt like we earned our siesta that day.....
Checchino since 1887
Via di Monte Testaccio, 30 00153 Rome
T: 0039 065743816 / 0039 065746318
E: checchino_roma@tin.it
Lunch; 12:30 to 3pm, last orders 2:45
Dinner; 8pm to midnight, last orders 11:45
closed Sunday and Monday
closed in August and one week between Christmas and New Year's Eve
Saint Eustachio, a coffee institution in Rome
Saint Eustachio is a coffee instutition in Rome, and known the world over. It was started in 1938 - with the current mosaic's and furnishings still original. It is now run by brothers Raimondo and Roberto Ricci. They carried on the tradition by selection the best coffee varieties that are prepared with a legendary secret blend. There are 6 tables outside, where you can sit and watch the world go by.
Then inside, you can perch at the counter if you just want to drink on the run.
On our first of many visits, we try a the signature Caffè d'élite which is the Sant’Eustachio coffee. We also order a Gran Cafe, which is Sant’Eustachio Coffee, only larger and creamier. It's not known exactly what they do to the coffee, but I heard rumors that these mentioned brews see the first few drops of espresso whipped with sugar, and the remainder of the espresso drip then added. All of this is sheltered, and quite secret, so I can't tell you ... They are both definitely sweet though, and have the presence of sugar crystals.
We return most mornings for our coffee and pastry fix while staying in Rome, and mostly enjoy just being a part of everyday Italian life, which always starts with a pastry and a coffee.
Sant’Eustachio Il Caffé
Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82
00186, Rome, Italy
T&F: + (0) 39 06 68802048
Sunday to Thursday 8.30am - 01.00am
Friday 8.30am – 01.30am
Saturday 8.30am – 02.00am
Nuts about Nutella
Ahhh, Italians do love their Nutella. Like the amazing idea of putting Nutella, sticks and a tea drink all in one convinient package - genius!
While in Tuscany we also spotted the first-of-many a jar of Nutella that was as big as Kim's head ... mmmmmmm, so much Nutella.
And after a night of eating over in Travestere district, we walk past a little crepe vendor. But what really grabbed my attention was all those Nutella jars ....
Having a crepe to smear it onto was just mere convenience, as walking around the streets of Rome with a jar of Nutella and a spoon might not be acceptable. Or maybe it would be?! There are plenty of options as far as additional toppings go, including nuts, coconut, banana & more, but I'm keeping it pure today ...
Ahh, Nutella love !!
While in Tuscany we also spotted the first-of-many a jar of Nutella that was as big as Kim's head ... mmmmmmm, so much Nutella.
And after a night of eating over in Travestere district, we walk past a little crepe vendor. But what really grabbed my attention was all those Nutella jars ....
Having a crepe to smear it onto was just mere convenience, as walking around the streets of Rome with a jar of Nutella and a spoon might not be acceptable. Or maybe it would be?! There are plenty of options as far as additional toppings go, including nuts, coconut, banana & more, but I'm keeping it pure today ...
Ahh, Nutella love !!
Bir & Fud, Rome
Bir & Fud is one place that was reccommeded to us by a lovely couple we met while dining at La Petraia ... We did track it down, but it was on a night where other eating commitments were already made, so we were only able to stop in briefly. With an ever-changing menu of artisanal beers on tap and over 100 different bottled brews, this is the premier beer destination of Rome.
We order some a few of their different draft beers.
We also ask for some light snacks, and before we know it we are greeted with some not-so-light but ever-so-tasty treats. A bowl of thin cut potato crisps with a tangy tomato sauce,
and a gigantuous plate of fried goodness! which included about 8 different types of croquette like goodies, some fried chicken and arancini balls. There's a spicy guandjua one with a chocolate sauce that is unique, but a very tasty combination.
Oh, Bir & Fud, hopefully we get to spend more time together next time !!
Bir & Fud
Via Benedetta 23
Roma, 00100, Italy
T: +39 (0) 6 5894016
We order some a few of their different draft beers.
We also ask for some light snacks, and before we know it we are greeted with some not-so-light but ever-so-tasty treats. A bowl of thin cut potato crisps with a tangy tomato sauce,
and a gigantuous plate of fried goodness! which included about 8 different types of croquette like goodies, some fried chicken and arancini balls. There's a spicy guandjua one with a chocolate sauce that is unique, but a very tasty combination.
Oh, Bir & Fud, hopefully we get to spend more time together next time !!
Bir & Fud
Via Benedetta 23
Roma, 00100, Italy
T: +39 (0) 6 5894016
Vatican City & stopping for Lunch
The one tour we booked while in Rome was to visit the Vatican City, and we were very glad we did. We were up bright and early, and assembled about 8:30. After we were all stamped we headed on over ... the crowds at this time of the morning to walk in were already in their thousands, winding around and around the streets. We got to walk straight on in.
It was a very informative and fascinating morning. Our guide was lovely, and very knowledgeable as we walked throughout the Vatican. Our favorite part was definitely the Geography or Map room.
By about 1pm, the place was getting to packed to even move, and when the tour ended we decided to head off ... we were hungry, anyways. We headed off in search of Del Frate, which was one of our dining picks for the surrounding area. 5 minutes on foot and we spot it, it's pretty packed with businessmen and lunching ladies.
Tartara di tonno alla Catalana is our first dish we select from Crudi. Chunks of tuna are diced along with plump tomatoes and boiled potatoes that are all dressed with a pungent olive oil, salt, pepper & lemon juice. So simple, but each ingredient is so fresh.
Carpaccio di Manzo, or beef carpaccio is next to arrive. Thin slices of beef that are blanketed over a mound of rocket leaves, that has chunks of parmesan and roasted walnuts scattered on top and is generously dressed with lemon and olive oil.
From the Primi Piatti section we cannot resist the Risotto radicchio, gorgonzola e noci. The risotto is a golden brown with specks of the red radicchio throughout. Each grain is plump and coated in a walnut like paste that is the delightful sauce, with a robust punch from the gorgonzola. A beautiful combination of flavors ...
I Secondi course is Spezzato di Vitello alla Genovese. This is a light veal stew from Genovese. Chunks of tender veal sit in a mild tomato & basil sauce. This is accompanied by a side dish of Patate al forno, crisp slices of potato that are roasted with rosemary and salt.
Now with content bellies, we were ready to brave the crowds again ...
It was a very informative and fascinating morning. Our guide was lovely, and very knowledgeable as we walked throughout the Vatican. Our favorite part was definitely the Geography or Map room.
By about 1pm, the place was getting to packed to even move, and when the tour ended we decided to head off ... we were hungry, anyways. We headed off in search of Del Frate, which was one of our dining picks for the surrounding area. 5 minutes on foot and we spot it, it's pretty packed with businessmen and lunching ladies.
Tartara di tonno alla Catalana is our first dish we select from Crudi. Chunks of tuna are diced along with plump tomatoes and boiled potatoes that are all dressed with a pungent olive oil, salt, pepper & lemon juice. So simple, but each ingredient is so fresh.
Carpaccio di Manzo, or beef carpaccio is next to arrive. Thin slices of beef that are blanketed over a mound of rocket leaves, that has chunks of parmesan and roasted walnuts scattered on top and is generously dressed with lemon and olive oil.
From the Primi Piatti section we cannot resist the Risotto radicchio, gorgonzola e noci. The risotto is a golden brown with specks of the red radicchio throughout. Each grain is plump and coated in a walnut like paste that is the delightful sauce, with a robust punch from the gorgonzola. A beautiful combination of flavors ...
I Secondi course is Spezzato di Vitello alla Genovese. This is a light veal stew from Genovese. Chunks of tender veal sit in a mild tomato & basil sauce. This is accompanied by a side dish of Patate al forno, crisp slices of potato that are roasted with rosemary and salt.
Now with content bellies, we were ready to brave the crowds again ...
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