Bistrot Guggenheim, Bilbao

We caught the tram over to the Guggenheim Museum, which is a little oasis on the edge of the river with green grassy knolls laced with daisies lined with students, families & groups of friends taking in the morning sun.

Admittedly, the art that drew us to the museum wasn't Jeff Koons’s Puppy .. although the discovery of this beautiful piece was a delight on a glorious sunny day. The giant puppy towering into the sky, embezzled with all sorts of bright flowers ...



Nor was it the works of Anselm Kiefer, Willem de Kooning, Robert Motherwell, Sigmar Polke, Gerhard Richter, James Rosenquist, Clyfford Still, Cy Twombly, or Andy Warhol. It wasn't even Richard Serra's sculptures that had as anticipating this visit .... Local artists Eduardo Chillida, Cristina Iglesias, Juan Muñoz, Jorge Oteiza, Antonio Saura, and Antoni Tàpies weren't enough to draw us in, but the culinary art, tasty creativity & edible sculptures of Josean Martínez Alija is what brings us to the Museum.

Of course we do go into the museum, and spend a few hours wandering around and appreciating some of the pieces. The works of Anish Kapoor, which were a limited show at Bilbao, were amazing. Giant tubs of red wax in various forms, and all sorts of artwork & sculptures that changed over time. But back to my favorite sort of art, the stuff that sits in glasses, or on ceramic ... that is appreciated with the use of a silver implement and excites all of the senses.

Restaurante Guggenheim the Gastronomic Restaurante & the Bistrot on premise. We are taking up the unbeatable 18€ set course lunch at the Bistot today - 3 courses with red wine, mineral water & bread. The menu is announced at the table along with the arrival of the amuse buche, a refreshing tomato & watermelon gazpacho.



There are several options for each course. Lighter appetizer options excited us, so much foie, jamon & fried foods were taking their toll. I start with a bulgur wheat. It was amazing! So much flavor, brunoise of vegetables throughout, with a vibrant & viscous sauce coating each grain.



Kim chooses the mange tout with potatoes. Perfectly plump mange tout still with a nice bite sit above chunks of potato floating in an intense green broth with a dusting of paprika.



Pork meatballs with curry sauce are rich and robust. The meatballs are juicy and exploding with flavor - herbs, seasoning, onion and vegetables. They are sitting in light curry broth, which is delightful mopped up with the crusty bread.



The prized work of the day is the little chicken wings. Deboned and pan fried until golden, they are sitting on a polenta spiked with black olives and a little of the pan juices. It's so nice to see the humble little chicken wing take centre stage, and really deliver on flavor. Yum!



A duo of cakes completes a delightful lunch. The pear and vanilla cake still warm, with a pear & vanilla puree and chocolate sorbet.



Rice cake with cinnamon ice-cream arrives at the table, it's a little bit abstract art and a whole lot of yummy. Light cubes of rice-pudding like cake with a rich cinnamon ice-cream.



It certainly beats the expensive sandwiches & average museum meals I remember from my childhood.

Restaurante Guggenheim Bilbao
Avda. Abandoibarra nº 2
48001 Bilbao, Vizcaya
T +34 944 239 333
F +34 944 242 560
E info@restauranteguggenheim.com

Nothing to do?? Bitoque.

It was with great sadness that we jumped on a bus and moved on from the gastronomic heaven that is San Sebastian. But with Bilbao only a few hours away we had in high hopes for the town which sports the world renown Guggenheim museum as well as rumor the food rivaled that of it's more famous neighbor.

Unfortunately it seemed that this may only be the case part time. Bar after bar we visited only to find intriguing menus with Friday / Saturday across the front. There were plenty of standards available but the good stuff was tantalising just out of reach. With a sinking feeling we made our way out of the meandering streets of the old town and into the new. Our last ditch shot at finding a diamond.... and what a diamond we found.

Bitoque is young, jumping and everything good about old school pintxos bars while giving you everything that's good about modern Spanish cooking, and cooking that's good all through the week. The foods that follow are not a single night but an amalgamation of three nights work, not for lack of trying to find something else. Each night we set out to find a recommended place or just have look and see what we could find but each night we ended up back at Bitoque for some comfort for our disappointment.

Creamy potato and olive oil croquettes.



Crispy fried cheese salad with fruit gummies; warm gooey cheesy goodness, balsamic dressed salad leaves and qunice jellies all in just the right size portion for something so rich.



Patatas bravas; crispy potatos, spicy tomato. The only other place we had bravas cooked with as much care as here was Albert Adrias Inopia in Barcelona. Somthing so simple needs extra care to be good.



Salad of baby scallops and prawns; nothing was jump out amazing here, just a good salad.



Squid sausage; not really understanding all the menu but also wanting to try all of it we were presented with an inky black sausage of squid. After our intial "ok then" we gave it a try and were suprised at its deliciousness. The accopmaning creamy mash really made it.



A beet risotto is barbie pink, sweet and earthy, a puddle of melted mascarpone enrichens.



Foie with grilled asparagus and crouton.



Baby squid; more of the tinyest squidlings you'd ever see sitting atop finger size cylinders of pasta all masked with a jet blak ink sauce.



Beef cheek; a small nugget of unctious beef sat in a puddle of creamy mash. Comfort food at it's finest.



Costilla; this word we knew. A slab of pork rib meat braised to falling apart, green apple puree and a touch of jus. Tasty tasty tasty.



Pancetta con pina, ha we knew this one too and who doesn't like the retro stylings of a ham and pineapple pizza? In this case no pizza but a good whack of pancetta and a pool of pineapple puree to throw you back to childhood.



And with that we had tried it all, The menu from A to Y. ..... Z? Well ok we did manage a little something sweet once or twice.

The chocolate browine with caramel ice cream was divine, but the inverse cheesecake was the one to steal the show. The rich silky smooth spoonful of slightly citrusy cheesecake scattered with cookie base crumbs. So hard to not order another three or four.



With so much to do during the day Bilbao we're so glad Bitoque was there to get us through the nights otherwise Bilbao may not have been even woth a mention. Still from the teaser menus we saw of the weekends offerings we'll come back one day and give it another shot.



BITOQUE ORIGINAL
+34 944418830
Calle Rodriguez Arias 32
48011 Bilbao-Bizkaia

Arzak

When we decided we would be going to Spain we knew we would have to go to at least one of the many 3 star restaurants on offer. A decision was made to book one in advance and play the rest by ear. So where was it to be - choices, choices, so many choices. In the end after many recommendations we decided on the worlds No. 9 Restaurant, Arzak. We were so excited as we rode through the streets of San Sebastian, what we see, eat, experience, like two giddy school kids.

From the exterior Arzak is a simple red brick building with nothing given away as we pull to the curb a doorman steps out open the door and welcoming us in.



We step into a small bar and are offered an aperitif here or we could be seated. We chose the seated option. A wall slides open to reveal the modern dining room, a complete contrast to the simply decorated bar. The concrete walls set with imprints of cutlery, sleek white table clothes, funky cutlery and pencil drawn menus. Sweet



As far as we're concerned there's no other option as far as ordering goes, it's degustation all the way. We take a look over the menu eyeing whats on offer and hoping the ones that catch our eye are on the course menu today.

So when the waiter took our order and then offered 3-4 options on nearly every course there was much awe and amazement. We were both going to get all the things we wanted. With the food out of the way the sommelier stopped by to see what we would like to drink .. we asked if we could get a matching wine course and were told while they did not have a wine course they would be more than happy to match wines to our meal. Would we like international, or Spanish. We went for the Spanish and were again delighted to see we each received different wine for each course.

As we sipped our cava several amuse bouche were delivered to the table. Strawberries with fresh cheese curd and pickled white anchovies. Fried rockfish pudding wrapped in crispy noodles. Tempura of blood pudding. Red bean soup with apple and warm jellied mushroom with corn powder. All inventive little bites of deliciousness giving us a hint of the joys to follow.




Manazanas asadas con aceite de fois.
Caramelized apple with foie and citrus confetti; Four discs of caramelized apple sat in a row, domes of seared foie atop each, individual sacs of orange and grapefruit brought gasps of how pretty and man that would take a lot of time to prep.



Patata, bogavante y copaiba
Lobster and potato; Poached lobster and and spherical ball of red pepper inside a puffed potato wafer sitting in a pool of sauce made from the Brazilian copaiba tree. The lobster was tender and sweet and the wafer started off with a crunch then dissolved away to nothing - clever.



Menhir de ostras
Oysters menhir; When I see the word menhir I think of Obelix the menhir delivery man in the Asterix books. The oysters arrived with a small menhir of puffed beet and confit potato stacked beside the oysters which had been sauteed to give then a nice crust. Perhaps the oysters were from Brittany giving them the Gaulic reference??



Huevo con temblor de tierra
Tremors of the earth; This was a dish we had heard much about and wanted to try - a slow cooked egg with sun dried tomato and black olive crumbs. The warm egg yolk mixed with the savoury flavours, a fancy comfort food.



Rape marea baja
Monkfish at lowtide; When this dish came out we were both stunned it was so visually perfect. The description in the menu was spot on, a piece of beautifully cooked monkfish sat in the wave wash of low tide right there on my plate and it was all edible, from the nori flavored seashells to the red pepper balls, tempura seaweed and liqueur jelly star fish. As well as looking like life it sacrificed no flavor at all. Beautiful and delicious!



Lubina
Seabass with spinach, walnuts and garlic; Playfulness jumped off the plate with a nothing is as it seems presentation. The garlic cloves were made of spinach, the walnuts of paprika and the sauce a velvety smooth garlic, the walnuts coming on the side as a glassy wafer.



Pichon con Chia
Pigeon with chia seed; The pigeon breast was cooked a perfect med rare and served with one of the birds favourite snack the chia seed. The seed came in the form of a cracker as well as chia spheres filled with broth. Along side a small bowl of the confit leg and micro greens.



Cordero con bizcocho de algas
Lamb; While the lamb was expertly cooked the dish itself was just as you saw it, perhaps it paled only when presented alongside the other dishes of kitchen wizardry we had already been given.



With the last of our savoury plates cleared it was time for a little something sweet. When making our menu choices we were asked if we like chocolate, sure why not. Based on that vague answer our desert menu was planned.

Sopa y chocolate entre vinedos
Soup and chocolate between the vineyards; Warm liquid chocolate spheres swimming in a strawberry soup with a scoop of basil ice cream.



Chocolate y cristales de colores
Chocolate with coloured glass; Small dabs of chocolate mousse paired with puffed wafers of different flavours, cinnamon, rosemary and red cabbage. Alongside a chocolate herb ice cream.



Dulce lunatico
Sweet Moon??; It sure looked like the moons surface. A grey salty sweet powder made up the surface with thickened red wine filled craters, and moon rocks of liquid orange juice encased in caramel.



Hidromiel y fractal fluido
Mead with fractured fluid; This was a desert in several parts. First lemon curd encased in chocolate shell, alongside a yogurt ice cream and finally bowl of clear liquid is presented before a small jug of red liquid is poured into the center of it. The red raced through the clear spreading out like a coral through the bowl. Tre cool.





With coffee came petite fors. A plate of chocolates, jellies, wafers and more. Just a little something to ease the coffee along.



Throughout the meal Juan Mari had come out several times to personally see if all was well. As we were leaving his daughter Elana was waiting to say goodbye, a fantastic personal touch to the meal, it really made you feel welcome.





As we said goodbye I glanced at my watch for the first time that afternoon and was surprised to find that 5 hours had passed effortlessly and un-noticed.

We had heard so many good and many so so stories about Arzak before we arrived, but we experienced nothing but excellence. The service was warm ,welcoming and professional, the food perfectly prepared, imaginative and exciting.

Arzak
273 Avenida Alcalde Elosegui
20015 Donostia/San Sebastian
Phone: +34 943 278 465

Asador Etxebarri

Asador Etxebarri was high on our list of places to eat on our recent trip to Spain. Even months prior, we had tried reserving a lunch spot - we sent e-mails, and tried the online reservation system with not much luck ... We were determined to get there nonetheless. Upon arriving in San Sebastian, we kindly asked the owner of the little guesthouse we were staying, if he would mind calling and booking us a lunch in just a few days time. Success !! We were super excited, and made our travel plans to Bilbao around our lunch reservation.

Upon arriving in Bilbao, we set out to find a rental car. We book online, and just have to go into the office to pick it up/settle payment. Seems easy enough, but the map given online was terrible ... We wandered around for a while, asking anyone and everyone for help. Finally a young girl points us to the 2nd floor of the main train station (why of course!). We take the car just for the day, and are very happy to pay the extra for the GPS. We are ready, pack into the car, iPhone maps and an internet printout as backup. Punching the address into the GPS is harder than we thought, as the address is in Basque, while the GPS input in Castelana. That proved to be the least of our worries, though, as when Kim starts the car we realise it's a manual. We are both confident driving manuals, but in an unfamilar city, on the wrong side of the road, not having to worry about changing gears is always a bonus. We set off, me of course doing a fine job of back-seat directing, even with all the maps & GPS ... We have allowed nearly 2 hours to arrive Atxondo, but find ourselves there within 45 minutes. Words can't describe the serenity that surrounds us, but this picture below will give you an idea of the mountains encasing this quaint little village that were looking upon us as we step out of the car ....



We hesitantly push our way through the closed doors, we're a few minutes early. Behind those doors is not what we expected at all, it's a rustic little bar top with wooden stools, some small tables and a set of stairs leading up in the back corner. We find one body behind the bar, who speaks very little English, but directs us upstairs. We announce our reservation and ushered over to a beautiful table right in the window, the afternoon sun bursting in behind us ... Beautiful wooden menu's are placed in front of us as so another 4.5 hour Spanish lunch begins.



Of course we choose the seasons tasting menu, which offers a vast selection of fine local produce. After we order, a small glass plate is placed in front of us with 2 pickled white anchovy fillets. They are so plump & full of life, with a young grassy olive oil lightly coating them.



The home made chorizo sits like a piece of fine art on the table in front of us ... 3 perfect rounds of the house made sausage, that shows so many different colors & textures. I bite each slice in half, savoring each mouthful of smokey, fatty sausage. It is so good ...



Smoked butter may seem like an odd 2nd course to some, but we were both very excited for this particular offering. A slab of the smoked butter sat on a thin slice of lightly toasted bread. Paper thin slices of a local mushroom are melting in to the butter, and a smokey ash salt finishes it off. I don't even have words to describe how happy this singular plate made me ... We sat on this one for a while, allowing every little bite to fill our mouths with the smokiness, as the ash salt dissolved on our tongues the flavor intensifies.



Our next course was an addition we made to the tasting menu, I mean who can resist foie gras? This one simplicity in all it's beauty, a fat slice of foie terrine with poached rhubarb & fruit toast.



Palamos prawns are a deep sea prawn caught of the Costa Brava. The color is vibrant, the taste intense. Salt & smoke coating the fingers with each bite ... a finger bowl & fresh towel allows these gems to be enjoyed by hand.



Grilled cockles with fresh pink grapefruit segments & a light foam excite the palate. I am captured by the gorgeous plated they are resting on, with 3 little cockle shell imprints in the ceramic perfectly holding the shells ....



Now, I have eaten some baby octopus in my time, but the little buggers that were served at this lunch were something else. Their bodies were size of my pinky nail ... they were plump & tasty, a black ink sauce, spinach & pickled shallots gave the dish a real earthiness ...



The angulas, or baby eels, is something I remember so vividly from Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. We knew these were seasonal, but were super excited to see them on the menu - we were in luck, they were coming into their last week of the season. The bowl of baby eels served with a mother-of-pearl spoon was aesthetically pleasing. My first mouthful was somewhat overwhelming though .... It was a scent that permeated all of my senses, and I wasn't quite sure if I liked it or not .... it mellowed out as I was trying to decide, and then I did quite enjoy the flavor. We later found out the eels are infused with tobacco. Once it had a chance to mellow out, the rich butter taste combined with the tobacco was divine. The little angulas were another favorite of the day.



Our fish course was Salt cod with roasted red peppers & butter sauce. The fish portion was massive for a tasting menu, and a little underwhelming. I would have been happy with a plate of roasted peppers, the flesh sweet with a robust smokey flavor. Yum!



The savory courses finish with a perfectly grilled piece of beef. Pink in the middle, a crusty salty exterior, each bite so full of flavor, leaving an intense charcoal taste in the mouth that is pleasant and not at all overpowering. A bowl of dressed butter lettuce leaves add a nice bit of acidity.



Nothing like cleansing the palate from a flavor intense meal full of differnt smokey flavors and charcoals then with a smoked ice-cream with fruit infusion. The smoked ice-cream coats the tongue and is velvet smooth, the fruit infusion refreshing & tart.



Milk cream is a bar of set custard cream, with a French toast-like coating and cinnamon ice-cream.



Coffee to finish with little financiers. The cafe con leche is is a fine cup of coffee, strong but not bitter coffee & creamy milk at just the right temperature ...



We sit pondering life & it's simple pleasures ... looking out the window behind us and feeling as though we are part of that picture. Nothing else matters .... I'm not sure how long we sat there, but all of a sudden I am hungry again.



We make an odd request, another portion of smoked butter. Think of it as a cheese course ....



Followed by a white & dark chocolate souffle. Bizarrely, the souffle comes to the table still with the metal ring around it ... as we crack into it the centre is still extremely wobbly, so may have been there to hold it all in?



As we are leaving we are lucky enough to get a tour of the kitchen ... Lennox, an Australian chef who came to Asador for a 6 month stage and still hasn't left, showed us around. He shows us the different ovens where the coal is being made, they types of wood, and the different sections of the grill .... and passionately talks about the local produce, and early morning drives across the border to France to pick up ingredients. As we talk we run into Morgy & Trish, who were having lunch this day as well and also getting a tour of the kitchen. Morgan McGlone is the Chef/Proprietor at Flinder's Inn in Sydney.





One of those lunches that inspired, enlightened & gave us a whole new appreciation for an ancient cooking technique.