Asador Etxebarri

Asador Etxebarri was high on our list of places to eat on our recent trip to Spain. Even months prior, we had tried reserving a lunch spot - we sent e-mails, and tried the online reservation system with not much luck ... We were determined to get there nonetheless. Upon arriving in San Sebastian, we kindly asked the owner of the little guesthouse we were staying, if he would mind calling and booking us a lunch in just a few days time. Success !! We were super excited, and made our travel plans to Bilbao around our lunch reservation.

Upon arriving in Bilbao, we set out to find a rental car. We book online, and just have to go into the office to pick it up/settle payment. Seems easy enough, but the map given online was terrible ... We wandered around for a while, asking anyone and everyone for help. Finally a young girl points us to the 2nd floor of the main train station (why of course!). We take the car just for the day, and are very happy to pay the extra for the GPS. We are ready, pack into the car, iPhone maps and an internet printout as backup. Punching the address into the GPS is harder than we thought, as the address is in Basque, while the GPS input in Castelana. That proved to be the least of our worries, though, as when Kim starts the car we realise it's a manual. We are both confident driving manuals, but in an unfamilar city, on the wrong side of the road, not having to worry about changing gears is always a bonus. We set off, me of course doing a fine job of back-seat directing, even with all the maps & GPS ... We have allowed nearly 2 hours to arrive Atxondo, but find ourselves there within 45 minutes. Words can't describe the serenity that surrounds us, but this picture below will give you an idea of the mountains encasing this quaint little village that were looking upon us as we step out of the car ....



We hesitantly push our way through the closed doors, we're a few minutes early. Behind those doors is not what we expected at all, it's a rustic little bar top with wooden stools, some small tables and a set of stairs leading up in the back corner. We find one body behind the bar, who speaks very little English, but directs us upstairs. We announce our reservation and ushered over to a beautiful table right in the window, the afternoon sun bursting in behind us ... Beautiful wooden menu's are placed in front of us as so another 4.5 hour Spanish lunch begins.



Of course we choose the seasons tasting menu, which offers a vast selection of fine local produce. After we order, a small glass plate is placed in front of us with 2 pickled white anchovy fillets. They are so plump & full of life, with a young grassy olive oil lightly coating them.



The home made chorizo sits like a piece of fine art on the table in front of us ... 3 perfect rounds of the house made sausage, that shows so many different colors & textures. I bite each slice in half, savoring each mouthful of smokey, fatty sausage. It is so good ...



Smoked butter may seem like an odd 2nd course to some, but we were both very excited for this particular offering. A slab of the smoked butter sat on a thin slice of lightly toasted bread. Paper thin slices of a local mushroom are melting in to the butter, and a smokey ash salt finishes it off. I don't even have words to describe how happy this singular plate made me ... We sat on this one for a while, allowing every little bite to fill our mouths with the smokiness, as the ash salt dissolved on our tongues the flavor intensifies.



Our next course was an addition we made to the tasting menu, I mean who can resist foie gras? This one simplicity in all it's beauty, a fat slice of foie terrine with poached rhubarb & fruit toast.



Palamos prawns are a deep sea prawn caught of the Costa Brava. The color is vibrant, the taste intense. Salt & smoke coating the fingers with each bite ... a finger bowl & fresh towel allows these gems to be enjoyed by hand.



Grilled cockles with fresh pink grapefruit segments & a light foam excite the palate. I am captured by the gorgeous plated they are resting on, with 3 little cockle shell imprints in the ceramic perfectly holding the shells ....



Now, I have eaten some baby octopus in my time, but the little buggers that were served at this lunch were something else. Their bodies were size of my pinky nail ... they were plump & tasty, a black ink sauce, spinach & pickled shallots gave the dish a real earthiness ...



The angulas, or baby eels, is something I remember so vividly from Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. We knew these were seasonal, but were super excited to see them on the menu - we were in luck, they were coming into their last week of the season. The bowl of baby eels served with a mother-of-pearl spoon was aesthetically pleasing. My first mouthful was somewhat overwhelming though .... It was a scent that permeated all of my senses, and I wasn't quite sure if I liked it or not .... it mellowed out as I was trying to decide, and then I did quite enjoy the flavor. We later found out the eels are infused with tobacco. Once it had a chance to mellow out, the rich butter taste combined with the tobacco was divine. The little angulas were another favorite of the day.



Our fish course was Salt cod with roasted red peppers & butter sauce. The fish portion was massive for a tasting menu, and a little underwhelming. I would have been happy with a plate of roasted peppers, the flesh sweet with a robust smokey flavor. Yum!



The savory courses finish with a perfectly grilled piece of beef. Pink in the middle, a crusty salty exterior, each bite so full of flavor, leaving an intense charcoal taste in the mouth that is pleasant and not at all overpowering. A bowl of dressed butter lettuce leaves add a nice bit of acidity.



Nothing like cleansing the palate from a flavor intense meal full of differnt smokey flavors and charcoals then with a smoked ice-cream with fruit infusion. The smoked ice-cream coats the tongue and is velvet smooth, the fruit infusion refreshing & tart.



Milk cream is a bar of set custard cream, with a French toast-like coating and cinnamon ice-cream.



Coffee to finish with little financiers. The cafe con leche is is a fine cup of coffee, strong but not bitter coffee & creamy milk at just the right temperature ...



We sit pondering life & it's simple pleasures ... looking out the window behind us and feeling as though we are part of that picture. Nothing else matters .... I'm not sure how long we sat there, but all of a sudden I am hungry again.



We make an odd request, another portion of smoked butter. Think of it as a cheese course ....



Followed by a white & dark chocolate souffle. Bizarrely, the souffle comes to the table still with the metal ring around it ... as we crack into it the centre is still extremely wobbly, so may have been there to hold it all in?



As we are leaving we are lucky enough to get a tour of the kitchen ... Lennox, an Australian chef who came to Asador for a 6 month stage and still hasn't left, showed us around. He shows us the different ovens where the coal is being made, they types of wood, and the different sections of the grill .... and passionately talks about the local produce, and early morning drives across the border to France to pick up ingredients. As we talk we run into Morgy & Trish, who were having lunch this day as well and also getting a tour of the kitchen. Morgan McGlone is the Chef/Proprietor at Flinder's Inn in Sydney.





One of those lunches that inspired, enlightened & gave us a whole new appreciation for an ancient cooking technique.

Al mercado, al mercado (To market, to market)

Whilst walking to Cafe Viena for a sandwich, we first encountered the amazement of La Boqueria, Barcelona's central food market. So it's only moments on that we find ourselves back to bask in the delights.

A quick stroll around the market turns into hours, as after 5 months of winter in Hokkaido, fresh fruits and vegetables are effecting us in so many positive ways. The colours, the smells, the vibrance & immediately the inspiration that comes from buckets of dried morel mushrooms;



bunches of wild asparagus sitting in little buckets of water, so wild and free it's as if they have their own personalities;



plump red tomatoes along with zebra striped heirlooms, citrus fruits & green leaves;



our minds and senses are overwhelmed ... trying to keep and store all of these sensations and informations for enjoyment down the line.

It's hard work I tell you ... so when we finally make it to the rear of the market and spot Barcentral, we know it's time for a drink. We start with 2 glasses of cava, Spain's version of sparkling wine. This one comes from the Penedès region in Catlonia, which is only 40km South West of where we are. It's refreshing and crisp, although the glass is small so is the price, so you just have to drink more of them ;p



Whilst we savour the cava, we point on top the counter and in no time have our settings graced with a plate of crispy fried artichokes;



and fried padron peppers. They both come with these incredible penny-sized flakes of salt, which are licked off our fingers as we devour them in no time.



This has only just wet our appetite, so we order a plate of Navaja's, or Razor Clams. They are thrown on a flat grill and splashed with wine & lemon juice. Once they open, they are placed on a plate with a generous splash of a garlic & parsley oil, a sprinkle of salt and a wedge of lemon. But thee flavour that stands out is simply the taste of the sea, lightly salty and oh-so fresh.



As we are sucking the little suckers out of the shell, we see a plate of pulpo (octopus) being plated up with precision. Of course we find room for 1 more plate. Slices of fried potatoes are scattered on the plate and then sprinkled with those giant flakes of salt, then a whole octopus leg is taken from the showcase and sliced into rounds which are then placed on the potato and completely cover the plate. A good sprinkling of paprika and a good glug of olive oil and here we have a very fine example of tasty octopus - so tender and not at all chewy.



It's our first day in Spain, and we both feel like we've slotted in just fine. Looking forward to the next 6 weeks of our adventures here.



Plaça de la Boqueria,
La Ramla 91
08001 - Barcelona, Barcelona
T: 93 318 2584

Barcentral
Stall 494-496
Row H
at the Carrer de Jerusalem entrance

Gianni's Ristorante, Bangkok

There were some crazy lunch deals going around in Bangkok while we were there .... and there seemed to be a following of Japanese house-wives (who's husbands must be working for mega-corporations in BKK) but we were quick to jump on the band wagon. First stop, Gianni's.

Located over in the shopping district, it was just a short stroll from Chidlom station. On our walk down to Gianni's, we discovered another little Soi just bustling with Thai workers on the lunch break, and a whole array of delicious looking foods (why there's just not enough time!) In particular, I loved this little noodle cart which seen taxi drivers and businessman sitting side by side on minuscule chairs chowing down their bowl of noodles ...



But then another few hundred meters down the road we arrive at Gianni's. There's valet service, and loads of black BMW's and Mercedes, but we just walk on in. The initial greeting was a little cold from the Thai host but she seated us anyway ...



after we receive the menu, Gianni himself comes over and gives us the run down and recommends a nice wine to accompany our lunch. White we ponder, we explore the incredible array of bread on our table. There's a vase full of grisini, as well as a basket with about 6 different kinds of bread. We dip the bread into the olive oil and balsamic on our table and have fun trying all the different types.



We have both gone for the 3 course option, at a mere 370B no reason not to! My first course, Vitello Tonnato con Peperoni. A superb interpretation of an Italian classic, thinly sliced veal (that was cooked, and tasted like a milk roast beef) was blanketed in a super smooth tuna mayonnaise with some sweet roasted peppers on top.



Kim has the Carpaccio di Polipo. Thinly sliced octopus is layered into perfect circles, and then stacked with a crisp vegetable vinaigrette layered between. It looks amazing, so colourful, and tastes just as good!



In the bottom of our little bread basket, we had spotted a little treasure, an unusual looking black bread roll, with a heavy dusting of flour, and both decided to save it for our main course. But while we were so into our entrees, a waiter just whisked the basket away, perhaps thinking we didn't want that one lonely bread roll. I call someone over and explain that we were actually saving it, and then what appears, but a basket full of those little black bread rolls.



Arrosto di Maiale Salsa alla Senape - low temperature roasted pork neck with mashed potatoes and mustard sauce. We both liked the sound of this one, and it comes out in it's simple glory. Beautifully roasted meat, a tangy mustard sauce, and super creamy mash.



Petto d'Anatra al Balsamico - pan roasted breast of duckling with vegetables and balsamic. Another one that grabbed both of our attention, so splitting half way was no problem. The duck was pink and tender, with a nice crisp skin. The vegetables, potato, sauteed spinach, baby carrot and a too-cute little pancetta wrapped bean bundle that all paired well with the duck and the rich balsamico sauce.



Now I love a liqueur trolley, but an olive oil trolley? That's superb! While having a little rest before dessert I notice the liqueur trolley which indeed had an impressive selection ....



but it was the olive oil trolley that took my eye. Perhaps it comes out at dinner time, and you can even select your oil to dip your bread in.



Mm, dessert. Kim takes the olive oil tor ..., er I mean gelato torta ;) It's a layered ice-cream cake with raspberry coulis.

Tiramisu is my choice. I love the simplicity. This one is rich and light all at the same time ...



Coffee's finish an incredible lunch, my cappuccino almost defying gravity with the tower of foam !!



Gianni Ristorante
34/1 Soi Tonson Ploenchit Road
Bangkok 10330
T: +66 2252-1619
F: +66 2 652 2584

Sen chou pt. II, Niseko Hirafu

Though we have been trying to try as many new places as possible without giving in to the temptation of just returning over and over to the same ones, Senchou was always just sitting at the back of our minds. Just to good to resist we headed back, but with the resolve that if we did we would have to try something new. Once again greeted and seated in a flash it was straight into the draft beef with this time the little side snack was jellied pork rib. Oishii!



Our resolve as it turned out was not that strong as we couldn't make it past two of the favourites from the previous visit, so the chicken and pork yakitori were once again the first dishes on the table, with our longing somewhat sated we able to the look at the menu a little more broadly, and so glad we were.

There are two types of salmon sashimi available regular and delicious, well I don't know about you but delicious always sounds like a good path to follow. Coming from the fatty belly of the salmon it certainly lived up to its name, the flavor delicate and the flesh melting in our mouths.



The fried octopus was several pieces from the leg of a lager animal, but there was not the slightest hint of toughness, the crust golden and seasoned with a hint of curry powder, topped with a squeeze of lemon it vanished fast.



Next came the show stopper of the night, scallop butter. This amazing dish consisted of a live scallop being fished out of a tank, then quick as a flash opened, sliced and whipped back into the shell with a touch of soy broth and a square of butter. The shell is then placed onto a small candle burner and brought to the table where it slowly heats and cooks to your liking.



As it was placed down the chef pointed out all the pieces, heart, flesh, coral as well as the skirt, in fact there was not a lot missing. As soon as it looked good to go we started first was the heart, firm and tasty!



Then the flesh and all the bits fell prey, quickly being scooped up.



As the scallop disappeared the reason for the little spoon served with the dish became apparent. What was left in the shell was an unbelievably tasty broth made up of the simmered scallop juices and the butter, too good to waste this was also quickly slurped down. (lucky slurping is a compliment here)



Then a moment of serendipity occurred, maybe through miscommunication or misunderstanding (don't know don't care) the next dish to arrive was potato gratin, we definitely hadn't ordered it but after a cautious taste we weren't going to give it up. The dish was like a Russian doll revealing little surprises layer after layer. On the outer roasted Hokkaido potatoes and asparagus gratinated and topped with a little sour cream.



Under that a layer of crispy grilled bacon and under that grilled scallops and baby squid. We were soon tapping the bottom of the plate to make sure there was nothing else there.



Finally to the table came a spin on chicken karage, rather than a few small pieces it was one thigh crumbed and fried whole, sliced then topped with a spring onion sauce, crispy, and cut with the slight sweetness from the sauce it was a fine finish to another great meal.



As we stepped out into the night I knew it won't be to long before we'll be experiencing Sen chou Pt. III....