Showing posts with label wagyu beef. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wagyu beef. Show all posts

Monday, May 4, 2009

Bar Espana, Suskino, Sapporo

We’d spent the day wandering around Odori Park for the Yuki Matsuri (Snow festival) in Sapporo, and golly me it was cold.

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After a shower and a freshen up it’s over to the Suskino end of town where we’re told the Ice Festival takes place. And indeed it does. Upon reaching the Route 36 / Suskino intersection as far as we can see it lit up with lights and there are some amazing ice carvings. We have a little wander around, we’re trying to find Blanc, which is a little wine bar over this side of town. We wander around for a while and don’t manage to find it (we later find out its upstairs in one of those vertical buildings housing a whole range of things, duh). It starts snowing quite heavily, which is very picturesque, but we’re now in desperate need of 3 things; shelter, drink and food.

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Right on Suskino we see a very welcoming sign “Bar Espana”. And as we look in its bustling with Japanese couples and groups sitting and drinking but there’s a little spot at the bar for the 2 of us, perfect.

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That’s the first thing sorted, now we both need that drink. There’s a fair sized wine list with about 12 by the glass. Kim starts with a glass of ’05 Motersierra Rosato. I decide on a fresh fruits sangria. (yes I know I said fruits, but it on the menu like that, and it’s cute.) A single ice cube is placed in the glass then topped with the red wine sangria mix. A generous spoonful of macerated berries is then added, which are sitting in a nice rich syrup. A splash of soda is added and then it’s checked for seasoning. All good! Then a little tray of fruit emerges from the fridge and artfully crafted and displayed on the top of the drink. A single orange segment, 3 perfect slices of apple and slice of kiwi fruit, a plump strawberry and 2 blueberries are threaded onto a tiny toothpick. As I pick up the glass I’m already impressed, its paper thin Japanese glassware and a fair size. I take the tip of the little toothpick and stir through the fruit then take a sip. It’s sweet, a little tart but still a nice robust wine flavour and is oh so soothing with the snow falling just beyond the door.

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And lastly, food. We love these sorts of places, we just order a few things with no idea about where the night is heading. First up, we can’t resist the Spanish Anchovies with Bucket. We were both curious about this one …. A plate arrives with 8 plump little fillets that are doused in olive oil with a little chopped herbs and cracked pepper. Then there’s a little basket with 2 thick slices of crusty baguette, ahhh, bucket. It’s a case of JapEnglish translation and not some bucket filled with something exciting.

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Mmm, pig. We’re already drooling over the leg of Jamon, sitting on the bar top that waiters are just slicing chunks from, filling little plates and delivering them all over the little tiny room.

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But firstly, fried pig’s ears with garlic. They are deliciously chewy on the inside but a crisp crackly outside is coated in fried garlic. Mmm.

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While we’re savouring each moment the delicious pigs ears are in our mouth, a plate of Iberico chorizo arrives. 12 paper thin slices are laid out on a little wooden tray. There’s a few caperberries, cornichons, parsley, dill and chervil to one corner and it’s spiked with a few toothpicks for easy eating.

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Ah, rather than ordering a plate of sliced Jamon there was something else that caught our stomach. Jamon sandwich. We had seen this little beauty crafted in front of our eyes, the anticipation almost becoming too much ….. As one waiter is slicing chunks of Jamon from the bone someone else is grilling a nice chunk of baguette. The baguette is then rubbed with a garlic clove and a sliced tomato. The smell on the hot bread is amazing. It’s then drizzled with virgin olive oil and the sliced Jamon piled between the 2 slices. Wow! The hot, crusty, garlicy tomato baguette is such a nice contrast with the room temperature, chewy and smooth Jamon. Amazing.

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We order some more drinks and some olives. There’s a jar of them sitting on the counter, a scoop of olives is placed in a boat and topped with some fried shallots. There were 3 different Spanish olives all marinated in a strong garlic oil and they were all delicious.

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We see a paella being served behind us. They have about 5 different ones on the menu. It looks and smells incredible. We will be back some other time just for this ….

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But for now, back to the drinking and tapa’s. Slices of barely cooked octopus are sprinkled with good Spanish paprika. They are resting a cute little terracotta pot. The octopus is so fresh and tender! And underneath we discover some boiled potatoes and garlic dressing.

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We get talking to the bartender, who’s really nice and asking all about what we do / where we’re from. We then get to asking him about all the stuff that written around the walls in Japanese. Ah, of course, today’s specials. We manage to get a fair idea of what’s on offer with our little Japanese and his little English. Wagyu carpaccio. Eh? We need one of those now! The meat is so tender, I just love the way with each chew a good wagyu gives you the flavour from the fat, the texture from the meat and an all over body excitement … There’s a little squeeze of lemon, salt flakes, cracked pepper, a few mini tomatoes and more garlic oil (we won’t have to worry about vampires tonight!).

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Well, we sure are glad we asked about the specials. The next up, some local Hokkaido deer that is seared to a golden crisp with a deep red gamey flesh. There’s a nice pink peppercorn sauce, roast garlic and purple potato.

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While we’re sitting there enjoying our last drink, we ran into some customers I had served at Sekka. It was so funny as I was telling them they had to go to the Suskino end of town to see the ice carvings…. And there they were! They snapped a nice happy pic of us, we shared some stories over our extremely cold adventurous day we’d both had and then we confirmed directions to Blanc from our bar tender.

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We did make it to Blanc and wished to continue the night with drinking and eating. The menu was all in Japanese and we tried to get some help. They blantantly said, No help, Omakase. We reluctantly agreed. Then we tried to order a bottle of wine. The first one, no stock. Second one, no stock. Third one, no stock. Finally we’re in luck, the ’96 Vin D’Alsace Pinot Blanc was in stock. But then the waiter tried to tell us we not like this wine, very very sweet. What the?? And the food was about the same…

Sunday, April 19, 2009

A little taste of New Years at Sekka

New Years Eve is all about celebrating the... heck, for me it's about food and fireworks!  Especially when we've spent the last 6 New Year's in kitchens cooking dinner for other people. But we usually manage to catch some good crackers at the end.

This was what we were serving up at Sekka Dining this NYE.

New Years Eve 2009

Hokkaido ice oyster with shochu marscarpone, soy salmon roe and pickled cucumber

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Beef carpaccio with smoked namenko mushrooms, mitzuna and monviso

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Chicken and black pepper tea with enoki mushroom

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Hokkaido diver scallops with roast Niseko sweet potato crepe

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Slow roast Tokkachi beef with du-puy lentils

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Okinawa Mandarin granita

Raspberry and Sambucca semi-freddo

Nothing like tooting you're own horn, especially at NYE!

Friday, April 17, 2009

Kamimura's, Niseko Hirafu

You can wait up three months before being able to set foot as a diner into Tetsyua's in Sydney, luckily for us with not to much trouble we were able to acquire a seat at Kamimura's. Kamimura is a Japanese chef who worked his way up through the ranks of Tetsyua's before returning home to open his own much acclaimed restaurant. The front of house is led by by former "Glory days" Bel Mondo manager Michael Phipps.

Nine course degustation is the only option for eating, the menu changing seasonally as well as records of your dining being kept so should you return within the same season you won't be offered the same menu twice. To go with the dinner we opt for the matching wine deg, it's hard to pick a bottle to match and entire meal, and there's a interesting sounding Nagano Merlot on the deg. that we're keen to try.

First dish up is abalone with eringi mushroom and yuzu, I've always liked the combination of abalone and mushrooms, the fine yuzu peel shavings lifting the dish lightly.

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Next served in a martini glass, a flounder sashimi with caviar. The fish is lightly dressed in lime, the caviar is both sturgeon and salmon providing a great saltiness and over the top micro shiso giving a herbal hint.

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We were then offered a small house made bread roll as an accompaniment to a perfectly executed duck and veal consomme. Crystal clear with a rich duck flavor.

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The forth a foie gras terrine with twice cooked eggplant and port reduction. The terrine covered with a layer of diced chives and a few grains of sea salt, the eggplants creaminess adding to the foie gras's richness. This dish we were told was one of the first dishes Kamimura made for Tetsyua and has been with him ever since.

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The next dish was the one with the interesting wine pairing we were waiting for. The Nagano Merlot was soft and rich with hints of cherries and blackcurrant. We thought it was really drinkable, and were happy to see some local support for the very young Japanese wine industry.

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The dish it was paired with Hokkaido scallops with truffled cream and herb salad was nice, the scallop cooked perfectly.

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After this it all got a little kinki, kinki fish that is. Kinki fish is one of the most valued and if hand line caught, most expensive fish in Asian cuisine. Super soft and super silky, sitting in a flying fish broth with braised gobo. It's topped with fried leeks and a little shredded nori.

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By now we were on such a roll that when the next dish came we ate half of it before remembering to take a photo (please don't tell the food bloggers union). Braised endive with mimolette. Salty, sweet and still with a little bite.

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The last of our savoury courses was Wagyu with three different Niseko potatoes, red, purple and yellow, confit in three different oils, walnut, hazelnut and olive. The wagyu was deliciously rich, I only wish that there was twice as much.

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Cheese and crackers were next arriving on handmade wooden plates from Kamimura's home town Asahikawa.

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Our pre-dessert of green tea sorbet was lifted out of ordinary with the addition of candied adzuki beans, a red bean often used in Japanese sweets.

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We finished up with spiced sauteed apple topped with biscuit crumbs and a calvados ice cream. Again a dish full of contrasts; salty, sweet, warm and cold and delicious and tasty. Well the last two aren't contrasts but it was both.

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Finally for us was petit fors and tea.

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You can see hints of Tetsyua here and there, but Kamimura has definitely stamped out his own style.

We'll be back with the change of season to see whats next.

Kamimura Restaurant
1st Floor Yamashizen West
185-8 Aza-Yamada
Kutchan-cho, Hokkaido
044-0081, Japan
Telephone: +81 (0)136-21-2288
Fax: +81 (0)136-21-2288