Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Are you going to drink that??

Seems it is the festive season round here ... Following close on the heels of pork and lanterns is the festival of beer (oh joy!). This happens smack bang in the middle of Sapporo and goes on for three weeks. All down Odori park huge beer gardens are set up by all the major players on Japans inebriation circuit as well as a bunch of the guys who usually prefer quality over quantity.

We made plans to meet up with a few friends in the center of the beerdom and headed off for a much needed civilization day in the city before hand. After some city wandering we found ourselves at the beginning of Odori so decided what better time than the present to have a few drinks. Wandering down the park we head past the gardens of the beers we can enjoy any day and grabbed a seat in the German section, we started off with a Franziskaner's weiss and a Spaten fest bier

Beer .... Beer ....

Of course we couldn't have a beer garden without beer drinking snacking, so with table and beer secured we picked up a German sausage plate as well as a curry sausage an kicked back in the afternoon sun. Sweet.

Beer .... Beer ....

Just as we finished the first round, we were joined by the Gyu+ crew We picked up a HB Munchen Dunkel and a Hallerndorfer Rauchbier which is a smoked beer, and got down to chewing the fat with the guys.

Beer .... Beer ....

After we polished off these beers, and maybe a couple of pretzels we took a mosey on down to the Otaru beer spot, passing a group of sumo on the way (our first sumo sighting in Japan). Although we would have been glad to drink any of Otaru's range we were more interested in the other creatively named micro brewed beers from Rouge brewery on offer. With one Dead guy ale, a Brutal bitter, Shakespeare stout and an Otaru Pilsner with strawberry syrup in our hands it was time for a little more talk and don't forget the snacks, this time grilled squid and beef with mustard.

Beer .... Beer ....

Beer .... Beer .... Beer ....

As the light was fading we now made our way to the Kirin tent where the night time action really kicks off, fueled by towers - 6 liters of towering beer, scouring the garden it seems that there is no seats left so we grab a spot on the grass....for about two seconds before a group leaving gives us their table. A tower is procured and the drinking begins.

Beer ....

It's a long way to the bottom and just when we had thought we had finished we realised we had just drunk until the beer level was out of sight, but there was still a liter in the plastic tower housing, once this was done the foolishness really set in.

Beer .... Beer ....

Beer .... Beer ....

Fuzzy logic brought Hisashi to the realization that if we had missed the unseen liter there were many liters awaiting a fellow in the know. This genius thought in his head he headed off into the throng of festivalers helpfully clearing the empty towers two or three at a time and stopping by our now hysterical table to empty the stash.

Beer ....

Ten more liters later we decided to head into town for a few more drinks and salsa of course. A quick stop in Tanuki koji at a bar that all I can remember is the roof was a foot shorter than I was, and we were suddenly in Suskino in a salsa bar, Hisashi promply passed out and the rest of us enjoyed salsa lessons from the owner for a few hours before wandering out onto the street for late late night ramen Kyushu style.

Beer ....

Beer ....

This means thin noodles and that's about all anyone remembers from that night. Good times.

Beer ....

Monday, October 19, 2009

Nebuta Matsuri, Aomori

It seems like so long ago where a group of 8 of us packed up into D & A's car and drove down to Hakkodate ... it was here we boarded a ferry bound for Aomori. Aomori is just at the top of Japan's mainland, and each year holds Japan's largest lantern festival, the Nebuta Matsuri.

We arrive at Aomori pier and make our way over to the said camp site. There are about 300 bikes parked on the grass, everything from scooters to Triumphs and Harley's. We stake a nice little spot of grass and proceed to set up our tents. The chief bikie comes over just to check on us ... he mainly wants to warn us that if we decide to stay there, it's going to be noisy as they will be partying well into the night. No problem here, we'll just join in.

Nebuta Matsuri

After we are all set up, and freshened up, it's into town we go. We are lucky enough to see the procession of bikes making their way in, so just stop for a while to admire. But then once we make it to the main part of town, some snacks are in order. First up, apple pie. Aomori is famous for apples, garlic and beef, and this apple pie shoes why. Sweet apple still with a little bite encased in a delicious, warm, buttery pastry. We also try the pumpkin variety.

Nebuta Matsuri

Then a delicious little cup of Korean pancake. It's a crisp batter with all bits of spring onion and splashed with a vinegar like sauce. Yum !!

Nebuta Matsuri

And perhaps one of the greatest festival foods, ever, meat on a stick! We first try a bacon kushi;

Nebuta Matsuri

followed by a gyu steak kushi. Chunks of delicious tender Aomori beef nicely salted and grilled, with a blush pink centre.

Nebuta Matsuri

It's not long until the taiko drums and lanterns start ... the whole main part of town is blocked off for the parade, which lasts for about 3 hours, and goes every night for a whole week. The drumming is hypnotizing, and plays for the opening 15 minutes before the procession of floats start rolling down the streets.

Nebuta Matsuri

and the lanterns, wow, the lanterns. They barely scrape under the traffic lights, and span the entire width of the main streets. The intricate detail and amazing colour makes for an out-of-this-world display.

Nebuta Matsuri
Nebuta Matsuri

After all the festivities we are ready for some food !! and beer ...

Nebuta Izakaya

as well as a few fresh grapefruit chu-hi's.

Nebuta Izakaya

First thing to hit the table, torched miso. A smear of top quality local miso is on a wooden spoon, which get's torched right before our eyes...

Nebuta Izakaya

There was a beautiful tofu salad,

Nebuta Izakaya

as well as a local apple salad, with a sweet apple dressing, sausages, pork with tofu, hormone and many more. We finish off with a little tub of complimentary apple jelly. Yum!

Nebuta Izakaya

A fun day was had by all !!

Nebuta Izakaya

We awake ready for another day of matsuri madness. First some wandering around the town, stumbling across things like little Japancakes filled with cabbage, pork, octopus, tonkatsu sauce and egg. mmmm

Nebuta Matsuri

We head off to the other side of town, to hunt out this little food street. It's like early afternoon tapa's ... along with loads of rice wine that was poured from a hollowed out piece of bamboo,

Nebuta Matsuri

We enjoyed fried onions, kari kari cheese-u and a deliciously aromatic saute of mushroom, sausage and garlic.

Nebuta Matsuri

Then it's back on the road, where Kim stubles across a sausage-pop. Yup, a coil of sausage on a stick that looks like a giant candy pop. mmmmm

Nebuta Matsuri

While I feast away on a cup of ice-cream with warm caramel sauce.

Nebuta Matsuri

Before the lanterns and taiko drumming starts again, we make a quick stop for a caffeine fix. Kim goes for an espresso,

Nebuta Matsuri

while I try a delicious spice tea. Like a chai, but packed with even more spice, in a warm, creamy milk. With the caffeine kicking in, we're ready to soldier on .... we find that observing the lanterns in all their beauty for the second time around (and not being to worried about getting photos, as we did that last night) we really appretiated and enjoyed it so much more! Taking in all the detail and beauty of each lantern. There was a lot more dancing on our part this time around, which meant bells were getting thrown at us from all directions ... a sae da a sae da a sae da sa da sa da ............

Nebuta Matsuri
Nebuta Matsuri
Nebuta Matsuri

All pumped and full of energy, we make a quick stop at McDonalds, and all stock up on a Japanese version of the McGang Bang. A cheeseburger with a piece of black pepper shaka shaka chicken. A mighty combo, we're now ready to board our midnigh ferry and start the 7 hour journey back to Hirafu.

Nebuta Matsuri

Incredible weekend, we hope to be back next year !!