Are you going to drink that??

Seems it is the festive season round here ... Following close on the heels of pork and lanterns is the festival of beer (oh joy!). This happens smack bang in the middle of Sapporo and goes on for three weeks. All down Odori park huge beer gardens are set up by all the major players on Japans inebriation circuit as well as a bunch of the guys who usually prefer quality over quantity.

We made plans to meet up with a few friends in the center of the beerdom and headed off for a much needed civilization day in the city before hand. After some city wandering we found ourselves at the beginning of Odori so decided what better time than the present to have a few drinks. Wandering down the park we head past the gardens of the beers we can enjoy any day and grabbed a seat in the German section, we started off with a Franziskaner's weiss and a Spaten fest bier



Of course we couldn't have a beer garden without beer drinking snacking, so with table and beer secured we picked up a German sausage plate as well as a curry sausage an kicked back in the afternoon sun. Sweet.



Just as we finished the first round, we were joined by the Gyu+ crew We picked up a HB Munchen Dunkel and a Hallerndorfer Rauchbier which is a smoked beer, and got down to chewing the fat with the guys.



After we polished off these beers, and maybe a couple of pretzels we took a mosey on down to the Otaru beer spot, passing a group of sumo on the way (our first sumo sighting in Japan). Although we would have been glad to drink any of Otaru's range we were more interested in the other creatively named micro brewed beers from Rouge brewery on offer. With one Dead guy ale, a Brutal bitter, Shakespeare stout and an Otaru Pilsner with strawberry syrup in our hands it was time for a little more talk and don't forget the snacks, this time grilled squid and beef with mustard.





As the light was fading we now made our way to the Kirin tent where the night time action really kicks off, fueled by towers - 6 liters of towering beer, scouring the garden it seems that there is no seats left so we grab a spot on the grass....for about two seconds before a group leaving gives us their table. A tower is procured and the drinking begins.



It's a long way to the bottom and just when we had thought we had finished we realised we had just drunk until the beer level was out of sight, but there was still a liter in the plastic tower housing, once this was done the foolishness really set in.





Fuzzy logic brought Hisashi to the realization that if we had missed the unseen liter there were many liters awaiting a fellow in the know. This genius thought in his head he headed off into the throng of festivalers helpfully clearing the empty towers two or three at a time and stopping by our now hysterical table to empty the stash.



Ten more liters later we decided to head into town for a few more drinks and salsa of course. A quick stop in Tanuki koji at a bar that all I can remember is the roof was a foot shorter than I was, and we were suddenly in Suskino in a salsa bar, Hisashi promply passed out and the rest of us enjoyed salsa lessons from the owner for a few hours before wandering out onto the street for late late night ramen Kyushu style.





This means thin noodles and that's about all anyone remembers from that night. Good times.

Sushi go round, Sapporo.

In Sapporo for a little business, theres alwys time for a little eating. Farmer Dennis is kind enough to show us to Kaiten Sushi Kirali down in Tanukikoji.



Quickly seated we got straight down to business. We're slowly learning the names of all our favourites so we can order straight from the chef rather than hope for one of them to wind it's way past.

Samba with a little minced pickled cucumber



Lightly torched marinaded beef with negi



Yummy yummy Salmon belly



My personal favourite, marinated mackerel with negi, theres just something about the slight vinegariness and firmer texture



Crispy fried octopus.



Kats favourite, minced toro with negi



A new one for us, the next size yellow tail up from Hamachi, Buri. It was really good, nice fatty slices from the belly.



Torched salmon



Torched eel with Japanese bbq sauce, oishi.



Salmon nigiri



A nice little trio of salmon, flatfish and mackerel with a good whack of wasabi



Bonito with minced ginger, awesome



And on top of all the awesomeness of the sushi was the awesomeness of the bill coming in at just 1500 yen each. Sweet.

More stick food, Sapporo.

Ten types down sixty five to go. Well sixty two now, stopped by the other day and knocked chicken with leek sauce, tsukone with cheese and potato with butter off the menu of our favourite yakitori place in Sapporo.





The tsukone with cheese was a surprise favourite. Didn't think that the combination would be at all pleasant, but the crisp on the outside chicken mince containing the melty cheese was really good. Maybe we've started going local..........or maybe it's just good.

The quest will go on.

Japanese fast food on a road trip, Katsu-mania!

On our way home after a quick visit to Sapporo we're both a little hungry. It's our first time driving into and out of Sapporo, so we're both concentrating on the driving and keeping an eye out for the signs. Almost out of the city we're really hungry now .... and as much as I'm wishing something would just jump out at me, like the golden arches, but not the golden arches, I'm thinking it might turn into SeicoMart hot chef lunch at any moment.

But then, just as I hoped it would, it jumped out at me. A shopfront plastered in sporadic wood planks, giant red kanji and something that just screamed out that there was a whole range of tasty's waiting inside. ''Kim, Kim, take the next left'' I exclaim. He seems a little puzzled as to what I'd seen but around we go. We trace back and find a park, then in we go.



I don't know why I had such a strong feeling that something delicious was waiting for us inside this wooden front building, but it certainly was.  What we discovered was a katsu shop.  Yup, just katsu's!  All be-it about 25 varieties and ways you could enjoy your katsu.  It was katsu-mania.  We point and order a couple of things from the menu. Firstly a cheese-u katsu. It's super crunchy with a mountain of freshly shaved white cabbage, rice and pickles.



Japanese curry katsu was also delicious. Slices of pork katsu sitting on a bed of rice and floating in a pool of Japanese curry sauce with some pickled ginger.



But the star of the show, something we noticed advertised by posters on the wall, the katsu sandwich. Now I love a good sandwich, and quite often the simple 2 or 3 filling ones are the best! And simple this was indeed. Plump pork katsu with a super crispy coating was sandwiched between 2 crustless slices of white bread. There was a scraping of butter and a splash of terriyaki sauce. Sublime! We add a little extra ton-katsu sauce from the pot sitting on our table.




Re-fuelled and nursing content tummy's we are again on our way ...

It just keeps pulling ... Fei, Sapporo.

It’s a gravitational force that just keeps pulling us in.

Fei is the perfect stop. Whether it be for a dessert after a mountain of Yakitori and a midnight pizza fix, a fantastic start to an evening with a few amuse for the bouche or in this case, for a special night out, some nice wine and the chef’s omakase course. What’s great is we keep going back and we’re always having something new.



The evening starts with a terrine. The ever-so-gracious Kumi going out of her way to explain to us what we’re eating and willing to go to any extremes to do so. With a little charades we gather it’s a bird … but then Kumi and her partner both harmoniously let out a little “Cooo ,, Cooo”. Ah-hah, Pigeon! It is a fine demonstration of a pigeon terrine, there are chunks of all the bits encased by a thin slice of bacon. It’s nestled in a romesco-like spicy sauce with some crisp watercress fanned out from one side.



Some crusty baguette arrives to accompany the terrine, and an Italian olive oil is poured at the table into a tiny little ramekin.



The house Prosseco, which is generously poured from a magnum pairs just beautifully with the terrine.

Pink soup. Pink wine. It makes perfect sense! We move onto a beautiful pink velvet beetroot soup. It tasted every bit of sweet red beets, served just warm and seasoned with only salt and pepper and finished with just a splash of cream. A large shard of homemade cracker and a delicious Italian rose have us both seeing pink!



Tatchi, or cod sperm, is the next star of the night. A clump of the stuff is pan-fried with a super crispy coating. It’s super fresh and although being quite creamy, it’s still quite firm. It’s sitting in a pool of gorgonzola sauce which marries together incredibly. A single round of fried potato giving it that little bit of extra crunch.



Okinawa always features as a point of interest on Fei’s menu. We’ve had from the little jewel of the south, banana, golden kiwi, baby vegetables and many more. Tonight is a showcase of Okinawa Spring vegetables. The risotto is made with a handful of the vegetables, the al dente rice clinging to them with a touch of cheese and butter. There’s an array of tempura’d baby vegetables on top a splash of balsamic reduction and a citrus salt.



As the risotto plate was whipped away we enjoyed a little break before the next course. We both patiently sat … and there was an amazing smoke smell that filled the room. It was a mellow wood, perhaps apple or cherry, with such a sweet smoke aroma. We were intrigued as to what was happening in the kitchen. Secretly I was hoping whatever the cause of the delicious smoke aroma filling the room was for us, but not expecting it. Smoking something during service is pretty dedicated, and being it was the only time of the evening we noticed it happening it was also pretty special. As the plate was placed in front of us we both indeed did feel special. Kumi tells us we’re about savor the delights of smoked Wild Hokkaido Duck. It was so beautiful, the coulors bringing us back to winter after our little Okinawa Spring break. And the duck, oh divine! Delectable! Delicious! The smoke was racing around my head and filling every crevice with each bite of the tender pink flesh. I made of point of putting down my cutlery with each bite to truly enjoy each moment. The dishes accentuation’s consisted of smokey pan juices, fresh shitake’s and 2 perfect spears of Treviso. A basket of crusty fruit bread arrives just in time to mop up all the delicious juices.



Kumi then gives us about 4 options for our pasta course. Again with above-and-beyond to explain to us one pasta dish, firstly snapping her hands together like a hungry shellfish, we kind of assumed it was some sort of mollusk. Not content, she returns moments later with a Seafood Handbook. Ah, surf clams! Kim jumps at that one. Plump morsels of the clam meat are tossed through a fresh saffron spaghetti with dried mini tomatoes and herbs.



It was a hard choice, but I settled on the gnocchi. The baby gnocchi silky smooth in my mouth, coated in butter, parmesan and cracked pepper.



We’re now getting pretty full … but when offered a Margarita pizza we’re not going to say no!



After a little break we start with the grappa. A glass of grappa di pinot noir is poured at the table for Kim. I enjoy a beautiful rose liqueur. So elegant!



Another thing we, well, me especially, cannot resist on a visit to Fei, pistachio gelato.



The other choice is always a tough one, as there’s always a new dessert on the menu, but tonight with the Zucotto on the menu, the choice was easy!



Every single time we have the pleasure of popping into Fei, we leave with a feeling of exhilaration and inspiration.

Until next time ...