Tortilla Flat, Sapporo

Wandering through the little underground villages in Sapporo that link various parts of the city to subway stations & shopping centres is always full of surprises. The little arcades are lined with funky little shops, and of course, countless little eateries. We had just stocked up on some books at Kinokuniya and crossed the road, entering JR station from the street we headed one floor underground. We were both captured by an entrance labeled "Pleasure town". Most of these little arcades tend to have names, like "Pole Town" "Fashion Lane" etc. We had to venture in to see what "Pleasure Town" had to offer. They must of course be talking about the 'Pleasure of Eating ...'

Wandering through we found this awesome little dumpling place (which of course we went back to. Blog to come) and various other eateries... But the one that took our fancy was Tortilla Flat.

I don't know what drew us in the first, the giant wine barrels, the hundreds of wine bottles, or perhaps the numerous Iberico legs hanging from the roof.



We poke our head in, it's allready quite full. We're happy to settle at the counter. There's quite a large menu with some fantasticly humorous translations and most of the drinks are in English.



We start with an order of one white sangria and one red. Sitting at the counter we see each drink crafted in a stemless riedel. Sugoi! The drinks are then passed from the bartender directly to us over the counter.



She then takes an cheese pick and peels back a white towel to reveal a half wheel of aged Parmigano Regiano. The heady aroma of the cheese escapes as she lifts the towel. Mmm. She takes the pick and hacks some chunks from the inside of the cheese. These chunks are then taken out with a spoon, placed in a little dish with a few toothpicks and handed to us over the bar. Wow. I think the whole experience of seeing it produced made it taste even better. A nice sharp kick to awaken the palate for what lay ahead.



We immediately order the marinated Spanish olives. A large jar of olives is produced and the bar tender just takes a spoonful into a dish and hands them over the bar. There was plump salty black olives and little stuffed green ones that were marinated in a garlic olive oil.



We had seen the leg of Iberico sitting on the counter, so next is plate of fresh sliced Iberico. Sitting at the counter we have a great view straight down into the kitchen. There's a young Japanese girl with awesome hair taking charge. She takes the Iberico from the counter and starts slicing.



Taking her time she fills the plate generously with the chunks of delicious pork. It's then drizzled with some virgin oil and finished with a large sprig of chervil. It's nice and firm, salty and full of flavour.



We then couldn't resist the slow cooked pork trotter with a sherry sauce. The pork meat is encased in an almost crackling like skin, but just tears apart with a fork. It's juicy and just has that porky flavour that we've not experienced outside of Japan. The sherry sauce is a nice sweet reduction of the cooking liquid. A few crisp vegetables sit to the side.



The drinks keep flowing and we keep on ordering dish by dish. We both love eating this way .... Next is garlic mushrooms. We see them getting prepared in the kitchen and the smell of them cooking is intoxicating. They arrive on a cute little terracotta escargot plate. 6 plump little mushroom caps sitting in an intense garlic & pepper topping. They're stabbed with a few toothpicks so we dive right in. Yum yum. The little pieces of toasted baguette to the side used to mop up all the garlicky goodness left in the plate.



Next to arrive is the anchovie and potoato dip. It's like a brandade, with warm potato puree mixed with Spanish anchovies. It's nicely seasoned, and scooped up quickly with some toasted bread. The little dressed salad on the side a nice bit of acidity.



We then order smoked salmon and quails egg. The quails egg is wrapped in the smoked salmon and sitting on a little round of toasted bread with a generous dollop of mayo. There's a thin strip of roasted pepper on top. The combination works really well and they're both devoured in no time.



We finish with a generous chunk of grilled Iberico pork. It's seared nicely, with a good crust, but juicy and a little pink in the middle. As we're eating it, we're assured this pig had a great life, it was as if you could taste the acorns he'd enjoyed. The meat had a delicious nutty flavour that just lingered ..... There was a decent spoon of mustard to smear on as we went and some steamed green beans and broccoli.

After an hour or so of this grazing we know this little corner of Spain in Japan will be added to our list of Sapporo staples ....

Sushi, Suskino, Sapporo

We're in Sapporo again after a day with M1 at Chitose hunting out some more fine Hokkaido products.  During the day we're already discussing our dinner plans.  As we haven't had sushi in Japan a phone call is made to Y and it's all organised.  Now the whole afternoon is spent eagerly awaiting this fine treat.

After a freshen up, we're picked up from the hotel.  We drive around for a  bit before ending up over in the vincinity of Suskino.  In the evening with all the flashing lights and crazy neon, it's quite a sight!

We find what M1 thinks is the building.  He's looking a bit puzzled though.  There appears to be a florist on the first floor, a set of lifts at the end of the corridor, and on the side wall a vague floor guide, all in Kanji of course.  

M1 doesn't seem to confident that we're in the right place.  He makes a phone call....  apparantly this is the building.  We take a life up to the 4th floor and walk past a place called "Dolce Bar"...  I was thinking, nice, somewhere for dessert after we fill up on sushi (if this is the right place) but upon walking by, realise that it's not that type of "Dolce" .  Anywhoo, we pass another few hostess bars before finding a quaint little entrance.  There's a plant, a sign in Kanji, and a curtain.  We head on through.....

It's allready quite full.  There's traditional Japanese seating off to the left, but thankfully we have one of the best seats in the house.  The 3 of us are seated directly in front of the 2 sushi chefs, at the counter.  We take a moment to take it all in....  The counter is housing an abundence of fresh seafoods...  There are many things unknown to us.  How exciting!

After a nice hot towel, drinks are arranged.  We start with our first, of many, Hokkaido sake's.  Delicious. 

I am then given a kawaii (too-cute) little napkin with the moon and some rabbits on it.  Only girls get these, apparently.

Then the food starts....  A lot is being said between M1 and the 2 sushi chef's, we're not quite sure what, but we're happy to leave it in their hands.  First course is a delicate little bowl of cod-roe with konnyaku. The cod roe was soft and salty, with a slight pop on the tongue. The strands of gelatinous konnyaku a nice flavour and texture contrast.

Next is a bowl of Hokkaido taraba crab.  It's been dressed lightly with fresh lime, and has the most amazing sweet natural flavour.  Sitting beside is a pile of fresh uni (sea urchin) which has a nice creaminess.  

The next to be placed in front of us is a generous bowl filled with ikura (salmon roe).  This is somewhat of a specialty in Hokkaido.  I have been blown away with the freshness and flavour of all the ikura we have sampled since we arrived ....  This is no exception.  Each little ball an explosion of flavour on the tongue.  Slightly salty with the addition of a very good shouyu soy, but still with it's incredible natural flavour.  All this is savoured from a little wooden spoon resting on the side of the bowl.

In some broken Jap-English, we're asked if we like oysters.  Of course!  We then watch as they are carefully removed from their shell, they are then dressed with a tangy ponzu dressing with and finished with a little seaweed.  Yum!

More sake is had as we watch some scallops going onto the little grill which is situated just behind the two chefs.



The scallops are then brushed with a sweet glaze.  Sheets of nori are then flashed over the grill, before the glazed scallop is wrapped up in a sheet of nori and handed to us over the counter.  This one is to be enjoyed with the hands.  Mmmm, and enjoyed it was.  The crisp toasty nori a perfect contrast to the plump, sweet scallop.

We sit back an savour our sake...  Our next dish is the only one of the evening to not be prepared at the counter.  When it arrives, there's a few giggles.  We try to ask what we're about to feast on, but all we manage to get out of them is "the female fish" and plenty more giggles.  Heh, anyway... it's tempura'd so we should be fine.  There's a little wedge of lime and some salt on the side.  The crisp batter reveals some very white and gooey stuff.  It's delicious, none-the-less.  There are also a few pieces of maitake mushroom which have been battered as well.  These have a great nutty flavour.  We later find out this Japanese delicacy is known as 'Shirako' or 'Tachi', which is cod milts, or to put it in lamen terms, cod sperm.  We have since seen this, and eaten it, on several occasions, prepared in a variety of different ways.  Tempura is still up there as one of the best, though.

We move onto another sake, and then start the marathon nigiri effort.

We all receive a beautiful jade coloured crockery plate in front of us.  Each piece of nigiri is then crafted before our eyes, before being placed, one-by-one, onto the plate.  The first is a piece of flatfish.  There is just the right amount of wasabi, the rice is still warm, and the fish so fresh brushed ever so lightly with sauce.

Then there's abalone nigiri.  Lightly scored and brushed with sauce.  It's nice a meaty, with great flavour.

Next up, prepare for battle-ships.  As each one is made, the little strip of nori is grilled before being wrapped around the warm rice.  It is then topped with the creamy uni.  Mmm.

We then see the nice big chunk of toro we've been eyeing off all night removed front the cabinet.  Toro nigiri.  Sublime!

Next is sweet shrimp nigiri.  The flavor is delicious, I just have a bit of a problem with the texture of raw shrimp....

But then next out is salmon belly, one of my absolute favorites.  It's so smooth and tasty!

I think they seen how much we enjoyed the toro...  A norimaki roll gets made right before our eyes.  A bit of the toro is taken and lightly chopped before being added, with a little sauce.  

They have some rather unidentifiable piece of sea creature they are then trying to explain to us.  One of them goes out and gets a little book.  It's full of pictures of all things seafood, with Japanese and English names.  We work out that it's Hokkaido surf clam.  It looks a little like a tongue draped over the shaped rice, but it was delicious!

We're then each given 2 pieces of inside out tuna norimaki, with toasted sesame seeds around the outside.

Then there's a rather unusual offering.  Smoked daikon pickles.  They're a deep brown colour, and the smoke smell is intoxicating.  Three plump slices of the pickle are served with a good dollop of sour cream.  An unusual but outstanding combination of flavors.

While we are savoring our pickles, one bite at a time, some small pieces of salmon are grilled.  This is then wrapped into a little norimaki, topped with ikura and bonito flakes.  Yum!

Another thing we had been fascinated with, was a little container full of the smallest little spring onions.  They looked like something that belonged on a Barbie dolls dinner table, or in a little doll house.  We sorted of pointed and expressed our interest.  We first had a look at the container.  Each strand was so perfect and green.  They were almost the length of my thumb...

We must have spent a while oohing over them, because before we knew it was another plate.  There were batons of Chinese yam, a very glutionous yet crunchy vegetable which had been pickled with perilla (red shiso).  They had a beautiful blush pink colour too them, and were lovely and refreshing.  Sitting to the side was 2 neat slices of tuna tataki, with the same sweet glazed brushed over them, and a little drop of cream cheese on each one.  Again, a rather unusual combination that worked really well.

We all move onto a Hokkaido sweet potato shochu.  It's nice a mellow, and served in a beautiful glass.

We then all (just about) finish with a gorgeous little minegi nigiri.  It has such a delicate onion flavour....  and it is so up there in the cute stakes!

We just sit and enjoy ....  before being asked if there was anything else we would like again or to try.  During the course of the night we had seen this large pink looking thing being sliced up...  We were curious.  We found out it was whale bacon or whale tongue and both lost our curiosity quick smart.  I ask for a grilled salmon nigiri.  Oishii.

Kim has a piece of fresh water eel grilled nigiri.

Another thing we were curious about, turns out to be house-made bottaga.  Awesome.  2 thin slices are served between crisp daikon.

Then comes a plate of house-made skimono, Japanese pickles.  There's daikon, cucumber and carrots and gobo that have been dipped in nutty toasted sesame seeds.

We watch as the two chef's work in harmony to create a gorgeous platter of sushi.  This is then taken down to one of the hostess bar's in the corridor.

We are again game to try a natto roll.  They all laugh when we agree.  We both eat it, I don't mind it's nuttiness, but it is rather slimy.  Again, the whole texture thing.  I mean, it's okay, but nothing either of us are crazy about.

It really is such a privilege to be able to sit at the counter of a fine sushi restaurant.  And to be in Japan and have that honor we are both truly grateful....

As we are leaving, I notice a too-cute little nigiri clock.  Nice!

We are walked all the way to the lifts by one of the chef's.  The whole floor is now buzzing, the bars all busy and plenty of hostess ......  Who would have thought, a fine sushi bar in amongst all of this.  Oh, wait, we are in Suskino.

Here's a copy of the shop card, with address
Somewhere around Suskino
Ph: 011 513 8002

Steamed Buns, Niseko

Chinese steamed buns , we love em and now we have a great local place to go for a fix.

Just 5 minutes down the road is the Niseko view plaza, the plaza is a great place where local farmers bring in their seasonally grown  produce and are given  a couple of shelves in a big communal shop to sell what they have.



It's like a permanent growers market, you don't know what's going to be there when you go. Kat and I went every few days during the last days of autumn picking up fruit and veg to preserve for winter

Just outside the market is a few food vendors; milk Kobo ice cream, eff eff charcuterie and Niseko beer, a fried potato stall and the bun lady.

She does three types of bun all with a Japanese twist rather than the traditional Chinese BBQ filling.  The first we try is a large bun filled with niku jaga, this is a usually a homely Japanese pork stew but translates nicely as a bun filling.

Having tried one and being rewarded for our curiosity with deliciousness we quickly went back and ordered one of every thing else.

The next was another large bun with a dark soy, mushroom and water chestnut filling, rich and savoury and again delicious.

The last is two smaller buns with gyoza filling of pork and garlic chive and served with a little black vinegar.  Two bites and they're quickly gone after which we know we'll be back for more.

And so we have dragging M1 along so we can talk to the vendor.

She hand makes the buns every day in Anupuri and brings them to the plaza each morning. She's very busy during summer but a little quiet during the snow season which has been good for us as we have been able to get her to make small cocktail size buns (too cute) for a few of the canape functions we've had over the season, this works out great as we can get our fix delivered.......sweet.

Steamed buns

Third stall

Niseko View Plaza