Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Taberna de Jam, Grenada Spain - and again ...

It was hard to stay away ... Firstly because it was just across the street from our hotel, secondly because the food really was that good. It was a great place to start the evening off, we could gather together over a few drinks, a few tapas, and set out for the rest of the evening. They have an impressive jamón menu, with majority of the listing perched up on the counter. The top rating jamón was the Joselito. The Joselito is an acorn fed Iberico ham. The meat is a rosy pink, with streaks of fat marbled through each piece. Watching the meat sliced from the leg with a long knife, we are very impressed by the skill, and also the care taken. As a small piece is sliced off, it is draped on the plate, with the next slice laying directly beside it. It's as if the leg is coming back to life on the plate, with each piece carefully put together like a puzzle.

Grenada

It's smooth and delicate, and almost sweet to begin. It's then you get a hit of salt and the creaminess of fat, which really elevates this jamón experience to another level.

Bite-sized little toasts topped with pate & apple puree arrive next. These little morsels pack a load of flavour all in one bite.

Grenada

The same apple puree appears on our next dish, but merely adds a sweetness to the dish, and it does not feel at all like we are eating the same component. Toasted bread, apple puree, a blood sausage and raisin mix with a fresh herb oil. A little bit messy to eat, but very tasty.

Grenada

We are discussing the rest of the evenings plans, over a few drinks, with good food & great company. One last little steak sandwich on toasted bread with baby leaves before we head out into the night ....

Grenada


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Froz-yo - frozen yogurt on the streets of Grenada

Ice-cream, win. Yogurt, win. Frozen yogurt with sauces, toppings, fruit & nuts, oh-so much win!

Grenada

It was nearly a year ago that we enjoyed these little yogurt treats, and I can't remember the details except that mine had nutella ;) and nuts and Kim's was fresh berries. I can remember that they were mighty delicious though!

Not sure what it was called, or where exactly it was, but if you stumble across some futuristic, silver, froz-yo parlour you should definitely head on in for a yogurty treat!

Grenada

Bella y la Bestia Cafe & Tapas Bar, Grenada Spain

It was a particularly festive time when we were in Grenada. We were wandering around on a Saturday morning, and must have passed at least 4 different groups of girls on what definitely appeared to be a Hen's outing, starting quite early in the morning. We turn a corner, and there are people spilling out onto the streets, streamers, loud voices, and a whole lot of commotion inside. We brave the crowds through the door and manage to perch ourselves at the bar that runs the length of the room.

Grenada

Behind there bar there are a few bar tenders at one end, and a tiny little kitchen set up at the other (where we managed to perch) with one lady just banging out tapas like a machine. With each drink ordered a yell comes from the bar to the lady in the kitchen, stating how many people, and what tapas plate they are up to. We constantly hear calls, with numbers flying everywhere, and it makes us dizzy. The lady on the pans though is not in the least bit fussed, putting up plates and shouting for runners. Each plate is completely different, all with some form of sandwich or roll usually, with different salads, condiments & breads.

Grenada

We order 2 beers, and our first complimenting tapas plate is a small bagel brushed with oil and grilled, and filled with a generous amount of sliced jamón with chopped parsley on top. There is then a mountain of pasta salad with a Mary Rose dressing and crispy fried chips with mayo & ketchup.

This little tapa was a meal in itself.. And we later find out that the Bella y la Bestia Cafe & Tapas bar has a few other outlets under their wing, including an incredible looking fish restaurant & bar. Oh well, next time we are in Grenada ...

Grenada

C/Carcel Baja 14, Grenada, Spain


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Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Whitebait and Beer for Breakfast, Fogon de Galicia, Grenada Spain

The tapas start early in Grenada. Well, early enough when you wake up at 10:30am ;) It's our first morning, and we initially venture out with a coffee and pastry in mind to start the day. We didn't have much luck finding anything of the sort .... We did notice a bunch of people drinking beer and eating a range of fried seafood delights at Fogon de Galacia while we were wandering around though. We end up tracing back down the little alley way, very pleased to start our day with 2 little Caña, or small sized beer and a plate of crispy fried whitebait with fresh lemon.

Grenada

Taberna de Jam, Grenada Spain - our first taste ...

After almost 2 weeks in Morocco, we found ourself back in Spain. We flew into Madrid and then took a bus ride several hours through the hills of olive trees and arrived in Grenada. It was warm, we were tired & hungry. We drop our bags at the wonderful Carlos V hotel, which was a recommendation from Io & H, and take a shower. All refreshed, we venture outside to see what's on offer. We step out of the hotel and there is a small park lined with orange trees, all blossoming. We both stop and take in the incredible smell ........ Then like a gleaming light in the not-so-distance we see Taberna de Jam. It's already bustling with people so we head on over.

Grenada

Now we had heard about Grenada being one of the few places that still offer a free tapa with every drink purchase, but for our first taste of this was pleasantly surprised. We ordered 2 of the Andalucian Tinto de Verano which are a refreshing mix of red wine and a sparkling lemon soda. The accompanying complimentary tapa is a little sandwich, on a little olive oil bread with slices of Jamón and a handful of potato crisps.

Grenada

We then order a few little dishes from the menu, the first up, an Andalucian cold soup, salmorejo. It is thick & rich, with boiled egg & Jamón and a slice of toasted bread.

Grenada

Then is a little brioche bun, with sliced Jamón, fried potatoes and a little quails egg. If I could have that sort of brioche bun each day for breakfast I would be one happy girl .... well, anytime of day in-fact.

Grenada

Well, it was time to move on and discover some more of this little town, but we were very happy to have this as our local.

Grenada


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Sunday, April 3, 2011

Dar Yacout, Marrakech

For our last night in Marrakech, we take our wonderful Riad owners advice and have booked a table at Yacout. We were even lucky to get a reservation with only a few days notice .... This is where anyone-who-is-anyone must dine while in Marrakech, well so we hear. Having played host to a string of celebrities, royalty and presidents from all over the world. We head down to the Kasbah gate in search of some means of transport to take us well within the realm of the Medina. It just so happens that a horse cart pulls up beside us. We check that he knows where it is, which of course he does. We hop into the back seat, which is surprisingly comfortable. The sun is setting, and the lights over the city are so pretty.

Marrakech

It takes about 20 minutes, darting through busy evening traffic, but having plenty of time to take it all in.

Marrakech

We are taken through winding, pebbled walkways of the medina, barely wide enough for the cart. We all of a sudden stop, when it gets really narrow, and way to busy for us to continue. The driver calls over a couple of young boys, and mutters a few words. We work out that these kids are going to lead us the remainder of the way .... We dart in and out of lanes, being just dark enough to be a little unsettling as you can't really see to far ahead, but we turn one last corner and we are there. We give the kids a few dollars, and thank them for their trouble.

Dar Yacout is quite grand. We walk through some large doors before being greeted by a team of staff, and quickly ushered up to the roof for an aperitif. We look down over the pool, and outside dining area on one side, and then an expansive view of the old city contained within the medina, and the bustle of the new city in the distance.

Marrakech

This is one of very few places that serves alcohol in Morocco. This is also the first time in our 11 day trip that we have any, so decide on a simple aperitif of white wine. It comes served in a beautiful goblet, with a bowl of green sultanas and some lightly toasted almonds.

Marrakech

We are then taken down to our table, and offered local Spring water as well as a selection of wines. We choose a Moroccan Rose. It was light, crisp and a beautiful rose color with the crystal glasses glistening under the dim light.

Marrakech

The usual Moroccan salad component of the meal arrives promptly. Little plates of spiced olives, carrot & orange salad, roasted garlic eggplant, zalouk, artichokes & little crispy pastries. These are all devoured with the infinite supply of soft bread.

Marrakech

These beautifully adorned vessels then arrive and rest beside the table.

Marrakech

The first unveiling reveals the oh-to-familiar chicken, preserved lemon & olive tagine. Shockingly, it is a whole chicken! just for the two of us ... we know there is more food to come, so despite it being delicious have to refrain from eating too much.

Marrakech

There is then a tagine of lamb with fresh peas. A massive portion again, we don't even get half way through it ....

Marrakech

Cous-cous with 7 vegetables is a fine example of this preparation, and a very welcome accompaniment to the lamb tagine.

Marrakech

We see a sweet pastilla placed down on the table beside us while we are finishing our main. They are as shocked as we seem with the sheer size, barely managing to get through a 1/4 of it. We wonder what happens with all of the remaining food .... as grand as each of the dishes seem, receiving whole chickens, or giant pastilla, we could have easily had 2 very hungry guests with us and no extra food. As soon as we indicate defeat against the lamb & cous-cous, it is whisked away. Moments later our table is graced with one giant pastilla.

Marrakech

It is absolutely delicious, layers of crisp, flaky pastry with toasted almonds and sweet milk. We manage one slice each, before a pot of mint tea and a tower of fresh baked sweets and cookies completely wipe us out. Oh .. so .. full!

An absolutely amazing setting, the pre-dinner drinks in the upstairs bar with a view of the city a highlight. The food was nice, but next time we will be sure to enjoy it with a few more people ....

Cone of Chips; street-food in Marrakech

Way back last Spring on our holiday in Morocco, we were slightly startled when we went to withdraw money from Kim's bank account, and it wouldn't work! Then we tried mine, and my debit card had somehow long expired for my Australian bank account, without us realizing .... Herein lies the importance of traveling with various forms of currency. We of course had our credit cards to get us through, and always have some travelers cheques. We were then hustling around trying to find a currency exchange or bank that accepted travelers cheques (harder than you think in Morocco).

Time was ticking .... We needed some cash for small, daily transactions. We were running from bank to bank, trying to find one that would cash American Express cheques. When suddenly there was a major distraction,

Marrakech

A little street-side cart, with a small light dangling overhead and a whole glass cabinet full of fried potatoes. Thin, crisp, golden potatoes. We scrounge together a few coins, for this brief moment not worrying about tomorrow, or money for a cab home.. The crisps are simply scooped up in a simple paper cone... still warm, glistening in the afternoon sun with little diamonds of salt reflecting in the light.

Marrakech

..... now, back to finding a bank.