Monday, May 23, 2011

Tosokchon Samgyetang, Gwanghwamun, you said what now???

Samgyetang; A whole chicken stuffed with sticky rice and all sorts of other goodies, a traditional Korean classic dish that cleverly blends medicine and things that are good for you and things that taste good. Apparently one of the best in Seoul is in Gwanghwamun, a place called Tosokchon Samgyetang....... we can't pronounce any of this but we're gonna give it a go. After a quick slightly hair raising cab to the vicinity a quick orientation, one wrong turn and directions from a jewellery store owner we were there.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

Despite the small nondescript shop front the restaurant sprawls back from the entrance with half a dozen rooms off a large cobbled central courtyard with trees and ponds all under the roof.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

We're led to a room at the far end, ditch our shoes at the entrance and find a seat at the long communal table. I'm not much of a fan of floor seating (near instant numb limbs) but it's all there is. Finally wedged in we survey the menu, surrounds, table etiquette, the people.. we're complete gawking tourists but this was to be our first meal in Korea, curiosity was great and the expectations were high.

We were here for the braised chicken so one of those was our first choice, we go one step further and order a black skinned chicken stuffed and cooked, we tried to order something else as well but were brusquely rebuffed by the stern waitresses, we guessed they thought we should try one and see if we wanted another, could have been they were sold out or a myriad of other reasons but we couldn't speak to any one and we were happy to sit back and see what happened anyways.

Despite the massive size of the place within seconds we have half a dozen small plates of kimchi's and raw garlic and other accompaniments and moments after that the chicken arrives bubbling away in a cast iron pot, a few pieces of black skin break the murky surface of the broth other than that nothing else is given away as to what inhabits it's depths.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

First off a tentative taste of all the sides, the apple kimchi is awesome; chunks of raw apple coated in a spicy puree lightly curing the apple but still leaving a bit of crunch, and the raw garlic is mild and not at all as scary as the prospect of eating raw garlic sounds.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

With the tasting out of the way it was chicken time, after a bit of fishing around with our chopsticks we start to pull out pieces of chicken, the hours braising leaves the flesh falling from the bone, but it's when we get to the stuffing that the real action happens.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

The rice is unctuous full of flavour from the stock it was cooked in and full of treasures; red dates, gingseng root, walnuts, pinenuts, chestnuts, ginko nuts, sunflower seeds and all sorts of other goodies giving the soft glutinous rice a lovely texture. The broth surrounding the chicken is the best of chicken broths - I wish all medicine could be this good! We spend a good half an hour draining the bowl and leaving nothing but a stripped carcass sitting in the bottom.
The pondering is long and hard about whether or not we should order another chicken but we decide on a wander of the streets to see if we can't turn up another morsel or two.

The plastic tab that is our menu doubles as our bill, the whole experience costing us 20,000 won, or a mere 20 dollars.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

on the way out we find a poster displaying the amazing amount of ingredients in the samgyetan.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

It is a grand introduction into Korean cuisine.

Tosokchon Samgyetang
Seoul-si Jongno-gu Chebu-dong 85-1

From Korea with Love

It's going to be hard to write the next few posts with out succumbing to the urge to trundle out a few tired puns so in the best interests of everyone Seoul food, Seoul train, Seoul Sista ahhhhhhhhhaaaaa!!!!!!

R Hotel

Ok Now thats done, yup we went to Seoul. A yell out to the twittersphere and a very brief search on chowhound and we figured we were set. The R Hotel is a little outta the way but with rooms like these how could we not say here, plus taxis are dirt cheap.

The Candy Robot room is a mash of wall-e and sweets with a queens size bed, a large bath that you could watch the huge plazma tv from and two, yes two computer terminals. It was pretty sweet.

R Hotel

R Hotel

R Hotel
121-6 Yeongdeungpodong 1(il)-ga,
Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
T: +82 2 2675 4800

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Jun Hom, checking out Pooky's Mum's old restaurant, Koh Samui

Pooky was one of the delightful Thai girls we were lucky enough to work with at Parrot Cay. Her food, amazing! So, when we met up with Steve & Kannika, also some old friends we had worked with on the island and we were in Koh Samui, we decided to hunt down Pooky's Mum's old restaurant. We knew it was called Jun Hom, and knew it was somewhere along Hat Bang Po. We doubled up on scooters, and rode the ring road up to the top of the island ... It was hot and dusty, and we were going at some speed. We of course drove past it and ended up at Mae Nam beach before heading back and retracing our steps. It took us a while to find, but it is nestled just beside the Coconut Villas, which is a great landmark should we be looking for it again.. We park the scooters and head on in.

Koh Samui

It's so green, the entrance surrounded by fresh plants. There is an undercover eating area, but we are very happy to take a seat out on the beach tables, taking our shoes off with the sand between our toes. We order a couple of big beers, which come Thai style with a bucket of ice.

Koh Samui

They have a huge menu, and then funnily enough only a couple of pages translated into English, which lists all the usual suspects. We are very lucky to have Kannika with us, who of course spots a whole range of interesting Thai dishes on the Thai menu. We leave the ordering up to her, just expressing our interest to try and true Southern style dishes. The first dish is just that, a dry fried curry with green peppercorns and lots of tumeric with a few slices of cucumber on the side. This is incredible, almost like a Southern style larb, but a bit dryer.

Koh Samui

The soup is also stained with the yellow of tumeric, simply filled with chunks of chicken, slices of onion and some fresh coriander.

Koh Samui

The next dish, oh my, I can still remember the taste, the texture of the fried lemongrass, and the amazing aroma. A whole fish was firstly marinated in amongst many other things, lemongrass, garlic & fish sauce and then deep-fryed. Then on top of that, a mountain of smashed up lemongrass and garlic had also been fried, the fine strands so aromatic and crispy. We all love this dish so much, and we have nearly devoured the whole thing before anyone notices the little sauce on the side, not that it needed it!

Koh Samui

Majority of the Thai population are Buddist, but many of those from the South are Muslim, immigrating to the area from the Indian subcontinent over the last 2 thousand years or so. Therefor the Southern regions of Thailand bear close similarities to Indian food, turmeric permiating a lot of the Southern Cuisine. It's the fresh tumeric root that is used though, with a beautiful gold colour and mild flavor. We see it again used in the Southern style fish curry. Chunks of well browned fish, with a green leaf that is a little bitter swimming in a light coconut and turmeric broth.

Koh Samui

Fried crab with egg, pepper and garlic was our last dish of the day. Whole blue crabs smashed up and piled high, the meat sucked from the shell.

Koh Samui

A beautiful, beachside location, with some really interesting and delicious Southern Thai dishes to match. A must if you are up the top end of the island.

Koh Samui

Jun Hom
Hat Bang Po
Next to the Coconut Villas
Koh Samui, Thailand


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Bee pollen for breakfast, Radiance Restaurant, the Spa Samui

Bee pollen. These little granules contain a whole range of minerals and vitamins and are high in protein and carbohydrates. Perfect for starting off the day, really. We have now arrived in Koh Samui, and are staying at the Spa Resort on Lamai beach. After 6 weeks of travelling, indulging, heavy eating and drinking, we will be doing a little 5 day detox while we are here. We take a few days to be able to meet up with friends, and not be restricted on what we are eating (or, not eating for that matter..). Think it's a wise choice to at least give the body something vibrant, something healthy, just so it knows what's coming ....

Guy's breakfast at the Radiance restaurant is a bowl of fresh chopped mango & papaya with a Chiang Mai sheeps milk yogurt and bee pollen. It's delicious! The bee pollen really giving the whole dish a nice texture, each little granule popping in the mouth and the sweetness of the fruit being balanced by the rich, luscious yogurt.

Koh Samui

Now, let's go eat some fried pork for lunch!

The Spa Resorts Koh Samui
P.O. Box #1, Lamai Beach
Koh Samui, 84310 Suratthani
Thailand
Tel: +66(0)77-230-855


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Chef knows best.

If you want late night eats in any city the best way to get the good stuff is find the hospitality hang outs.

A couple of our friends having just finished work were heading out for a little something something and we tagged along.... The little something in this case is pig organ soup. It's not much to look at but swimming within it's murky depths is part or parts from every internal piece of the noble pig. With it's fragrant punchy peppery flavor it's a perfect just finished-the-grind late night snack. Looking around a lot of others think so too.

Singapore

Side it up with a plate of braised pig feet and your good to go.

Singapore

Ming fa fish ball
5 Chinatown food street
Singapore


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Thursday, May 5, 2011

Checking in on an old friend, Tian Tian, Singapore

On our recent trip back to Singapore, Tian Tian Hainese chicken at Maxwell food centre was on our to-eat list. We had visited previously, and were well impressed with their chicken rice.. the finest example we have found of this classic dish. We wanted to check in on this old friend, the succulent boiled chicken, plump slices sitting on a fragrant rice with a bowl of the peppered cooking broth.

Singapore

Our friend is doing well, and still as delicious as ever. All washed down with a glass of fresh sugarcane juice from the stall across the way. We will see you both next time we are in Singapore!

Tian Tian Hiananese Chicken Rice
Stall no. 10
Maxwell Food Center
11 S Bridge Road, Singapore 058656

11am - 8pm, closed Monday


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Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Yan Ting, St Regis, Singapore

The St Regis on the top of Orchard road is fancy, not your regular fancy but over the top outta this world fancy. We walk into the huge marble lined foyer and wonder if we can really be in the right place. Walked by one doorman to the lift and by a lift attendant to the door of the restaurant it's a far cry from the hawker centres we eat most of our lunch time meals at. We're at Yan Ting, the Regis's Chinese restaurant, rumor on the street is that the restaurant serves some of the best dim sum in town and at very reasonable prices.

As we're seated the customary tea is brought to the table, no chipped rubber capped teapot today though, the teapot is beautiful china inlaid with gold leaf as are the plates and bowls. There's also not the usual procession of trolleys swing past your table by angry old woman ignoring you as you try to order rather a menu to order from and to our surprise the rumors are correct the dim sum is of regular pricing. We rattle off an order and sit back to soak in our opulent surrounding while we wait.

Singapore

It's not long before the food arrives. Bbq pork pies are one of our yum cha standards and these are exceptional, the pastry crisp and flaky, the pork not too sweet.

Singapore

The carrot cake is one of my all time favorites, it has no carrots, it's not really a cake and it's all delicious, wok fried with a touch of xo sauce, bean sprouts and garlic sprouts. It has great texture and the kiss of the wok smokiness. Awesome.

Singapore

Beautiful vegetable dumplings were the next to the table. Cleverly folded to display three small square of different colored peppers. The dumplings were clean and fresh tasting.

Singapore

Three sui mai with the orange dash of crab roe, plump and firm bursting with sweet pork and crab flavor.

Singapore

Soup dumplings always present a challenge, I know that they're filled with piping liquid yet I'm always surprised when I burn myself not waiting for the soup to cool a little. This time was no different.

Singapore

I don't think you can go wrong with black vinegar braised pork belly, sweet sour and unctuous swimming along side shiitake mushrooms and egg.

Singapore

At yum cha unless you happen to be siting right next to the kitchen by the time the fried goodies get to you they are often soft and not as awesome as the could be. Not this time. Salt and pepper white bait straight from the fryer, paused long enough to get a nice heavy shake of seasoning.Each one a crispy crunchy delight.

Singapore

I've played around with making steamed pork bun from time to time and the one thing you'll never find in any recipe or that not many people will tell you is the secret to that spectacularly fluffy soft white bun. I don't know if I'm breaking some secret unwritten code here of not but the secret is ammonia. Ammonia was actually one of the first rising agents used by bakers. As long as the bread is not to large the ammonia flavor and smell evaporate during cooking. In the case if the pork bun its what make it so white and fluffy. You can usually buy cooking ammonia in any decent Chinese grocery. But enough history for one day. These buns were good.

Singapore

To finish up we have our traditional yum cha ender of egg tarts. These were delicious but a touch on the small side. I think we should of had two each.

Singapore

Yan Ting's dim sum stepped up to the mark giving us as good as we've had anywhere. While the dim sum cost was no more than the usual the twenty dollar bottle of mineral water reminded us of where we were, still you can always just have the bottomless tea, and to sit in such fine surrounds was lovely.

Yan Ting

The St. Regis Singapore
29 Tanglin Road
Singapore 247911
Phone: (65) 6506 6888


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Monday, May 2, 2011

Killiney Kopitiam, Singapore

Killiney Kopitiam is serious. It's serious about it's coffee which is a blend of Columbian arabica beans and Indonesian robusta beans. It's also very serious about it's kaya jam, which is made daily in the store. Kaya is as synonymous with Singapore eating, as Killiney Kopitiam is synonymous with Kaya.

Singapore

This humble little kopitiams beginnings back in 1919 were as a little shop serving well brewed coffee & tea, with charcoal grilled kaya toast. Then a gentlemen by the name of Mr Woon, a regular to the shop, loved it so much he bought it in 1993 and renamed it Killiney Kopitiam. We both start with a kaya and coffee.

Singapore

The toast is nicely grilled, while still being soft on the inside. The light green kaya is full of coconut flavor and the sweetness being mellowed by the slices of cold butter. The eggs at Killiney are small, and extremely fresh. The eggs come out in their shell with a small bowl to crack them into. There's something quite satisfying of cracking these soft eggs into the bowl, the way they cascade from the shell, with their big, bright orange yolks. We have a little of the dark soy, and some white pepper on top. I like to dip my toast into the egg, then savor any remains with a small spoon (or just order more toast!).

The Killiney menu today has expanded, with a range of local delicacies. We also try the little Nasi Lemak parcels. We see a stream of these going out the door with take-away coffees, what an awesome fast-food breakfast. Little banana leaf parcels filled with aromatic steamed coconut rice, dried fishies and sambal.

Singapore

We also try the chicken curry with French bread. This is an old breakfast classic, that Mr Woon is trying to revive. Chunks of bone-in chicken leg are simmered in a rich curry broth, with some potatoes adding a nice bit of body. There is then some crusty French bread on the side, which we just tear off and dip into the broth. Definitely not a light start to the day, but a damn fine start!

Singapore

We finish off with a couple of iced-milo drinks. Light and frothy, over loads of ice. Seems to ease the tummy just nicely ...

Killiney Kopi Tiam
67 Killiney Road
Singapore 239525
T: 6734 9648


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Worlds apart; Kway Teow at Zion Road, Singapore

So, our Spring holiday last year started with 5 weeks of travels around Spain and Morocco. This was the first time we had done any extensive traveling around Europe, and the food and culture was infectious. The casual, relaxed days that revolve around eating and drinking and of course the afternoon Siesta...

It was then we find ourselves in Singapore for a few days before heading to Thailand. Immediately upon arrival it is clear we are Worlds apart. There are a lot more buildings, tall ones and it seems quite sterile (especially after Morocco). The humidity hangs in the air. The taxi driver speaks English, la. And we are ready for some Hawker Food. We make our way to the Zion Road Riverside Food Centre. It's so different to what we have been doing for the past 5 weeks ... Plastic tables, open air space, fans spinning around and a little more urgency here.

Singapore

It's certainly not a long, relaxed lunch with alcohol and coffee. It's a quick plate of noodles. Kway Teow noodles, from stall no. 18 to be precise.

Singapore

We also have a plate of stir-fried greens, which are the most vibrant green we've seen in a while. The noodles have pieces of fish cake, clams, beansprouts and egg in a rich brown sauce while still remaining somewhat light. The greens simply dressed with oyster sauce.

Singapore

Now, it may be jetlag, but we're off for a Siesta;)

Zion Riverside Food Centre Stall no. 18
70 Zion Rd
S247792 Singapore
12-3pm and 6:30-11pm
Closed alternate Mondays


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La Granja and Xurreria, Barcelona Spain

Our first visit to Barcelona we had some trouble finding authentic churros. We had read a great little piece on Barcelona Food Girl but after wandering up and down the little Banys Nous several times, it was clear both places were taking an Easter break. On our return, we are eager to hunt them down ... The Banys Nous was then alive, and all the shops were open. We first spotted the Xurreria with piles of fried goodness in the window.

Barcelona

So the deal is, you buy a paper bag full of churros, which are sold by weight. A few euros gets us enough for 2. Then you head next door into La Granja, or the Milk Bar, where they are more-than happy for you to bring in your churros and open on the table. They have an extensive drink menu, so there is bound to be something for everyone. Coffees, liquers, tisanes, tea and of course the hot chocolates.

Barcelona

We both choose a Xocolata Picant. It is thick, rich and spiced with chili and cinamon. We dip the churros into our cups, the sugar that has been sprinkled on the giving a beautiful contrast against the lick of heat from the chili's...

The tiled walls, bright paint, marble tabletops and friendly staff make this a place we could easily spend a lot of time. It might just be a good thing they were closed for the Easter holidays...

Barcelona Barcelona

Banys Nous
Carrer dels Banys Nous, 3
08002 Barcelona, Spain
933 437 994


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Holy mushrooms, breakfast at Kiosko Universal, La Boqueria Barcelona

Holy mushrooms, this lone platter of giant mushrooms on the counter at Kiosko Universal made our decision of breakfast on this morning an easy one.

Barcelona

We'll have those, sautéed, with a few eggs. Oh sure, throw some fried potatoes in there too!

Barcelona

All we need is a few slices of pan con tomate which are sitting on the counter and we are good to go.

Barcelona

Not a bad choice at all for a quick breakfast before taking to the streets, it's on the top end of the boqueria a few blocks over from Pinotxo bar.

Barcelona

Mercat Sant Josep, PUESTO 691
08002 Barcelona, Spain
933 178 286


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Espai Sucre Dessert Restaurant, Barcelona Spain

Espai Sucre is the work of partners Jordi Butrón and Xano Saguer. They opened in 2000 with the proclaim of being the "only Dessert restaurant in the World". 11 years on, I am still not aware of any other sole dessert restaurants of this caliber. They also provide a consulting service, as well as a range of pastry school classes. We didn't make a booking, but arrive around 9pm. They are very happy to accommodate us, and lead us through the small dining room in the front, past the kitchen, to a small area at the back seating only 6-10 people.

Barcelona

We get a nice little seat with a view of the kitchen. Giant mirrors line the ceiling, so you can see the whole process of each little intricate sweet bite being made. There is a range of menus to choose from, and we go with one of the Chocolate Menu's and one of the Little Dessert Menu's.

The Chocolate menu included 3 desserts & petit fors for 37.5€. There's the option to take matching sweet wines with each course, 4€ for 1 pairing, and 10€ for 3 pairings. Of course we take 3... The first chocolate course is Chocolate with vinegar, strawberries, mint and pepper. There was a mint foam, and hints of pepper in the chocolate wafer, and the strawberry ice was amazing.

Barcelona

The next on the Chocolate menu was truffle mushroom, butter, hazelnut and cocoa. This swayed on both sides of savory and sweet, with a rich earthiness from the combination of butter, hazelnuts and truffle. I could eat this for breakfast ....

Barcelona

The last of the chocolate courses, before petit fors of course, was the Chocolate energy bar, pumpernickel ice-cream, Tanzanie 75% and basil. The bar is made with the Tanzanie 75% covuture chocolate harvested exclusively in Tanzania. It is a blend of Criollo and Forastero beans, which produces a chocolate with spicy & fruit characteristics that is both intense and subtle at the same time. The pumpernickel ice-cream mellows the whole dish, and there is no doubt that we got a boost of energy from this one (although that may just be all of the sugar!).

Barcelona

The second menu we have chosen is the Littler Dessert Menu. This also has 3 courses, with petit fors, and is just 30€. We take another 3 wine pairings with this menu for the additional 10€ as well. The little menu starts off with "Ginger Ale", cucumber, pineapple and tarragon sherbet. The ginger ale is an intense foam sitting in the base of the bowl, there are cucumber and mint rolls and then the sherbet which is elevated with the addition of tarragon.

Barcelona

"Idiazábal" cake with cherry, beet and black beer. Idiazábal is a Basque cheese from the mountains in Spain, made from ewe's milk. The cheese was earthy, and the texture soft like pillows. The cherry and beet in the form of an ice, was sweet and tart and the black beer gave a pleasant, almost dark chocolate like bitterness to the dish.

Barcelona

Hm, I wonder who was doing bacon ice-cream first? We try a bread pudding, bacon ice-cream and pineapple. It's a wonderful finish to a well rounded sweet sensation. The crisp piece of bread really adding to the whole experience of the pudding. The bacon ice-cream was awesome! I could eat that stuff on toast. This dish though, really favored eating each component as a whole, with each part enhancing the other.

Barcelona

The little petit fors selection is delivered to the table on a very cool welded metal stand (Dad, take note;) we may want some of these made some day!) with a couple of little frozen shots. There were cake pops, chocolate florentine, chocolate truffles, short bread, fruit jubes and some cinnamon and almond cookies.

Barcelona

An espresso is the perfect end to our dessert feast. (Dad, also take note of the little welded sugar-compartment box in the background, this too is awesome).

Barcelona

Now, how many occasions after a wonderful meal have you just been dying to go somewhere with an impressive dessert menu and some nice digestifs and coffee? It happens to us a lot ... I think more people around the world should embrace the whole Dessert Restaurant thing. We for one would support that movement!

Barcelona

Espai Sucre
C/ PRINCESA, 53
08003 Barcelona, Spain
T: 932 681 630


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