Wednesday, April 15, 2009

300 yen bar

Three hundred yen for anything, any beer any sprit any food ……. at Bar 300 that’s the deal.

Sapporo

Two floors down the layout of this bar instantly makes you ask how the hell did they do that?? As you walk out of the lift there’s a small reception then an aisle that runs down between two rows of concrete pipe set into the floor that make booths.

Hokkaido

Each segment has a couple of bench seats and a table and could seat about 4 of us or maybe 6 Japanese. The walls and any flat surface are crammed with vintage posters, records, old toys, all sorts of eclectic things

Sapporo

We ordered a couple of beers and a couple of snacks, the snacks were pretty forgettable but we’d go back for a drink. Three hundred yen is a bargain, and next time we’ll sit in the t.v bedroom and maybe ride the on the coin operated giraffe.


Sapporo

Mmmm Stick food

We love food on a stick and both agree with the line in Something about Mary that there should be more meats on sticks. Theres something about non candy items on sticks that blends childhood nostalgia with adult eating wonderfully, so when we were faced with a menu containing over 75 types of Yakitori there was as you’d expect a little excited hyperventilation.

The big glass window showing off the guns on the grill drew us in, a good metre and a half long and near full of tasty stick treats. So with the “ya don’t know if ya don’t go” attitude in we went. The place is jumping, packed with all walks eating, drinking and talking, the wait staff yelling their orders over the top of it all. It had this vibe, we were welcome and we wanted to stay.

Sapporo

The room is sporadically divided with swiss cheesed partitions so you’re on your own but in the middle of all at the same time. With so many choices we ordered a couple of beers and some edamame while we perused. The menu is huge, with three chicken sections, minced, breast, and all the bits, a pork section, a beef section, a seafood section, a veg section and an all the rest section. How’s a guy supposed to decide??

Sapporo

We end up choosing 6 sticks to start, first up eggplant wrapped in caul fat, the outside grilled crispy, the fat adding richness to the creamy interior.

Sapporo

The next a porky platter with bacon wrapped mochi, pork cheeks and kim chi wrapped in pork. I love the gooey texture of hot mochi and wrapped in bacon, I mean what’s not good wrapped in bacon. The pork with kim chi, tasty tasty tasty and the pork cheek well, the fat grilled golden and cruchy, oh man it’s love on a stick.

Sapporo

Sticks 5 and 6 arrive, a minced chicken with green onion and a decadent stick of chicken skin concertinaed up and spaced with negi. You know how good roast chicken skin is?? This way you don’t have to roast a whole bird to get the goods. Sweet.

Sapporo

We stop for a quick beer refuel this time trying a half half, a mix of half dark half light yebisu. The result, a beer with the flavour of the dark but not so heavy.
After the beer break we were ready for round two ordering up another 4 types.

Sapporo

Beef fillet with grated daikon and soy .

Sapporo

The cryptically titled “mayonnaise of the lobster” turned out to be small school prawns with seeded mustard mayo.

Sapporo

Chicken breast with daikon and soy.

Sapporo

And finally minced chicken with ume and shiso, the sour plum goes so well with the smoky grilled chicken and herbal shiso.

Sapporo

We’d had ten types of stick food when we decided to make a move, that being the case we’d have come back seven more times just to try everything on the menu, so I guess this is just part one…..

To be continued….

Sapporo

If anyone can read the street sign and let us know what it’s called that would be cool.

Black Camembert

When you mention the name `Furano` to anyone in Hokkaido I think lavender would be the next word that immediately came to mind.  Amazing images of the fields of purple are plastered everywhere in books, magazines and guides.









But there’s a lot more to Furano than lavender…  They have even started making wine and cheese in Furano. 

One thing that really caught our attention was the ‘Black Cheese’ made by Furano Cheese Kobo.  It’s a Camembert style of cheese colored with squid ink.  Yes, interesting is what we said as well.  But, we had to try it.  Thankfully on a recent visit to Cheese Please in Pole Town they had ¼ wheels for sale (I don’t know that we could have handled a whole wheel).

Hokkaido

Well, it is indeed black.  It’s severe, intense, harsh and even a bit gloomy.  The black charcoal pate is accentuated by the white mould that’s covering the outside. 

And, well, it tasted about as good as camembert with squid ink could.  I guess it’s just about the novelty factor …….

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Sipping latte's in Tokyu

We're winding our way up through the escalotors of Tokyu Department store, Sapporo. We're on the lookout for relaxation massage on the 10th floor (my neck is killing me) but we don't make it past the 4th floor. There's a sign at the turn for the 5th floor draging us both in ...... It's that of a delicious looking chocolate pudding, with a pumpkin cream centre. Even though my neck is quite sore, we're both immediately dragged towards Cafe la Mille.

Sapporo

It's full! We don't mind waiting a few minutes and just scope around. Kim does however notice that there are no other males within the cafe. It does definately seem to be a shopping lady's pitt stop (mind you, we late noticed Tokyu department store is mainly for older women). Nevermind, we head on in. We order one of the chocolate pumpkin pudding. It was slightly warm, rich dense pudding revealing a creamy and sweet pumpkin filling.

Sapporo

We also have a piece of chestnut cake. Delicious and fluffy, with layers of sponge and chestnut cream and a few toasted walnuts on top.

Sapporo

We both try a Hokkaido milk coffee, which is a mild roast latte topped with hot, creamy, delicious Hokkaido milk.

Sapporo

As we depart, we know we may be joining the latte sipping lady's on the 4th floor again soon ........

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Tiny Shop, Big Ramen

It's cold..... really cold and the wind is bitter, whipping around us and we've been standing here for 20 minutes. Here is out side a tiny six seat ramen restaurant etched into a corner of building opposite Bic Camera in Sapporo and every second we wait in the out in the cold my hope that what's on offer inside is worth it grows. Having seen this place on several occasions and wondered what sort of building planner allows a two meter indent in the corner of their building for a possible shop?

Sapporo
Sapporo

We had thought we had arrived bang on twelve, yet as we peeped through the doors there were six butts on six chairs so the waiting had begun.

Finally seconds before we succumb to frost bite and hypothermia a space clears and we're in.

Sapporo

There's just the six stools at a bar and a kitchen barely big enough to stand still in and one guy doing the cooking then walking the two feet to do the serving.

Sapporo

Kat opts for the spicy ramen and I'm always a sucker for roast pork with soft egg. With the kitchen within touching distance we can see every move, for Kats spicy ramen the pork, chili, beansprouts and bamboo are stir-fried before the stock is added and the lot poured over the noodles. The result a spicy broth with a good kick piled high with goodies. Mine comes loaded with pork a great soft egg and a sheet of toasted nori tucked into one side.

Sapporo

After both ramen are slurped down enthusiastically it's tempting to just sit and enjoy being warm and content but our memory of standing outside in the queue is still fresh and others are outside needing a break from the icy breath of Siberia, so very reluctantly we move on. The next time we come here it's going to be in summer, good ramen or no, really cold is really freakin cold.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Night wandering around in Sapporo

Sapporo

Now we have a night wandering around by ourselves in Sapporo, we immediately head for Suskino. It's quite overwhelming. All these 5 or 6 story high buildings with various signs out the front (all in Japanese of course) and no real idea what is inside. We wander around for a while but honestly don't even know where to start. We give M2 a call.. He points us in the direction of Commelier, a little wine bar over the other side of Route 36. The instructions were pretty clear, we just need to find the alley way behind KFC and about half way down will be a green sign saying Commelier. We find it rather easily, it of course is in one of these anonymous 6 story buildings. We head on up the elevator and emerge in a rather bare corridor.  Heading down to the end we find a too-cute little door with the sign. Opening up the door there's a large communal table that is full of Japanese business men and ladies. We are warmly greeted by the host and walked over to a little booth in the corner.

Sapporo

Firstly we ask for recommendation on a nice glass of wine. Kim tries a glass of Razor's Edge Cabernet Shiraz, which happens to be one of the wines M2 supplies to Commelier. I try a glass of Hokkaido wine, a Furano white. It's quite sweet, but very easy to drink. We then manage to speak a few words with the host and say we would like to share some smaller dishes. We then leave it in his hands.

We both have a little giggle at the sausage dog hashi rest ....

Sapporo

The first dish to hit the table, a version of 'corned beef'. It was set almost like a rillette, cut into little squares,  nice and rich with that pickle and salty flavour of corned beef. Served alongside some crusty baguette and a little pot of seeded mustard.

Sapporo

The next to arrived was a beautiful little omelet. It had a pile of Japanese mushrooms on top with a butter sauce surrounding it. The filling was to be a surprise. We both delicately cut into either end of the omelet and take our first bite. The sweet sweet flavour of Hokkaido crab is like nothing else. The egg is cooked perfectly, still a little runny in the middle. The delicate crab meat sticking to the inside of the omelet, and the mushrooms and butter sauce adding nice body and roundness to the dish.

Sapporo

It's about now that M2 actually arrives. He said he might see us there later ..... We've all ready had another glass of wine each, but now that M2 is here we go and order a bottle of Alsace riesling. Mmm, one Kim and my favorites, and definitely M2's favorite! It's here where the photo's lagged a bit. I know we ate a few other dishes, but we don't seem to have any pic's. The last pic we have is of some delicious crispy grilled Hokkaido chicken. This is simplicity at it's finest. We have had this dish a few times at different places. The Hokkaido chicken has such a nice flavour to begin with. It's skin is so crispy, like chicken crackling, yet the flesh is so tender and juicy. It's possibly cooked the whole way through on the skin side. Served cut into a few smaller bite sized pieces with a generous mound of Adonai Hokkaido salt to dip into before savouring each bite. The salt bringing out the delicate flavour even more.

Sapporo

We then bid Commelier goodnight, but the night has only just begun. We wander downstairs looking for a yakitori place, which is another of M2's faves. We find one, but it's spanking new ... wandering in, it doesn't seem familiar. Turns out it was the same place, just completely re-done. It's at this stage that we venture over the road to Giulio's. We didn't even make the association that we had met Giulio before. We sit down and order a glass of wine. He has a few specials, all using 'Dennis the pig'. (Dennis is a local farmer you can read about in one of our earlier posts). We order Giulio's home made fennel cured leg ham, and also the hand-made sausage with liver and braised beans. Both using Dennis the pig and both delicious! We ordered a few other dishes, all very traditionally Italian, simple and tasty.

We then head back to a place that happens to be just around the corner. This particular place had taken our fancy earlier on this trip. It was after Sushi with M1 that we were all craving a little something sweet. M1 couldn't really think of a place we could just go to for dessert. He even made a few phone calls, but no luck. It was then after having soup curry for lunch one day, that we had stumbled upon a little place called 'Tsubaki Dessert Bar'. So here we are, on our third stop for the night.

Tsubaki Dessert

In the little alley way that runs just behind McDonalds, on the Ekimae Rt 36 intersection is Tsubaki Dessert Bar. You enter from the street and go down a set of stairs. Off to the right, there's a little restaurant, Dining Kuwana, and to the left you enter through a curtain for desserts.....oh sweet desserts.

Tsubaki Dessert

They have a nice lists of spirits, liquors and shochu's. They also have a few herbal teas. I get a pot of the rose and hibiscus tea, the smell as it's placed in front of me intoxicating......

Tsubaki Dessert

Kim gets a glass of shochu on the rocks, a deliciously sweet plum wine. On the little menu, the star attraction is their bowl of ice-cream with 12 flavored syrups. There are a few other offerings, including cake and parfait.

We go straight for the main event, the bowl of ice-cream. Firstly a small tray is placed in front of us. There's a large bowl with a few good scoops of plain milk ice-cream. There are 2 spoons, with a little spoon rest to build you tasty treat on and to the side is a little bowl of crushed peanuts.

Tsubaki Dessert

Then there's the custom made little tray, holding 12 cute little ceramic pots. Each pot has an individual little spoon. There is a small label on the front, but it is in Japanese. Our waiter is extremely friendly and does a very good job of explaining the flavours to us. With our little broken Japenglish we work out the most part and fill in the gaps by tasting.

Tsubaki Dessert

The flavours included, chocolate, coffee, maple syrup, berry, cassis, gin, tequila, grape, whiskey, soy, apple and one other ......

It was delicious, the most fun was making our own little flavour combinations. Some favorites were maple and apple, cassis & gin, and the milk ice-cream, soy & crushed peanuts seemed to work quite well.

Tsubaki Dessert

All in all, not bad for a night wandering around Sapporo.

Underground dumplings, Sapporo

Fancy a quickie?? Good, me too.
As I was so sweetly just reminded I owed you all a dumpling follow up.

In pleasure town (I just don't stop loving that name) under JR tower we had just finished up at Tortilla flat and were on our wander home when we came across this little dumpling house. Far too full to give it a try we made a mental note, and the next day when we were in the area we swung back for a dumpling fix.

Sapporo

Wan Zhu Ji Men was the name of place with the name wrapped around smiling pig as the shop logo. They do a variety of chinese noodles, rice and dumplings, Feeling just a bit peckish we opted for just a few dumplings. No idea what the dumplings were we just pointed at few interesting ones and hoped for the best, one lot with red dumpling skins, a set of long ones and a set of standard shaped, all were fried pot sticker style, came with a good smear of chili on the side as well as Chinese black vinegar (a Chinkiang no less) to dip in and my memory tells me they were tasty as was the lychee soda we had to accompany them.

Sapporo

Sapporo

Sapporo

Sapporo

Perhaps the next time we go we'll have a Japanese speaker so we actually know what we're eating. Still it was a great place for a mid afternoonish snack and they sell the Chinkiang by the bottle so that's always a good reason to swing by.

Too quick???

Wan Zhu Ji Men
Pleasure town
Under Jr tower Dimaru side