Japanese fast food on a road trip, Katsu-mania!

On our way home after a quick visit to Sapporo we're both a little hungry. It's our first time driving into and out of Sapporo, so we're both concentrating on the driving and keeping an eye out for the signs. Almost out of the city we're really hungry now .... and as much as I'm wishing something would just jump out at me, like the golden arches, but not the golden arches, I'm thinking it might turn into SeicoMart hot chef lunch at any moment.

But then, just as I hoped it would, it jumped out at me. A shopfront plastered in sporadic wood planks, giant red kanji and something that just screamed out that there was a whole range of tasty's waiting inside. ''Kim, Kim, take the next left'' I exclaim. He seems a little puzzled as to what I'd seen but around we go. We trace back and find a park, then in we go.



I don't know why I had such a strong feeling that something delicious was waiting for us inside this wooden front building, but it certainly was.  What we discovered was a katsu shop.  Yup, just katsu's!  All be-it about 25 varieties and ways you could enjoy your katsu.  It was katsu-mania.  We point and order a couple of things from the menu. Firstly a cheese-u katsu. It's super crunchy with a mountain of freshly shaved white cabbage, rice and pickles.



Japanese curry katsu was also delicious. Slices of pork katsu sitting on a bed of rice and floating in a pool of Japanese curry sauce with some pickled ginger.



But the star of the show, something we noticed advertised by posters on the wall, the katsu sandwich. Now I love a good sandwich, and quite often the simple 2 or 3 filling ones are the best! And simple this was indeed. Plump pork katsu with a super crispy coating was sandwiched between 2 crustless slices of white bread. There was a scraping of butter and a splash of terriyaki sauce. Sublime! We add a little extra ton-katsu sauce from the pot sitting on our table.




Re-fuelled and nursing content tummy's we are again on our way ...

The importance of a good staff meal ...

Staff meals are fundamental to a productive happy team.  I find it a challenge being able to make something tasty, exciting and nourishing for very little cost out of things your find lying around a commercial kitchen.  Sometimes we'd even get spoilt with a dessert, like here.  

On this particular occasion, H has whipped up an omu rice.  We enjoy the omu rice we've tasted at Pomme-no-ki but homemade is just something else.  

The rice was fried with peas, negi and some soy then half covered by a paper thin omlette.  Resting on top were some crisp sliced of chicken katsu (which we use for the kids menu :)) and a delicious terriyaki Otaru bacon and mushroom mix.



As long as we're eating this well every night, or close to, you can be guaranteed we'll be a productive happy team!

Salmon Prosciutto

Iwani is a small town on the rugged west coast of Hokkaido. It's a beautiful craggy coast swept by the piercingly cold Siberian winds, jagged rocks peaking out of the snow on the beach.



Just the place if you were looking for someone who perhaps was in the business of producing amazing air dried whole Hokkaido salmon. We were, which is why on this particular blustery morning we were driving along the coast road to meet with such a man. Having no idea other than it's somewhere along the coast road made for an interesting ride but we got there in the end. As we drive slowly along the coast we see a three story frame on the side of the road, the hundreds of salmon swaying in the wind kinda gives it away as the place we're looking for.





One side of the road is the processing shop and the other the drying frame. We're warmly welcomed and given a quick tour of the processing shop. While we were there they were stripping the skin from Hoke that had been cured in rice bran before drying. Some flakes were produced for tasting, the taste is not overly fishy as I had been fearing but salty and with a hint of the cure.





Across the road and it's a slightly worrying climb up some very haphazardly constructed ladders to the goodies.



The first level containing more of the hoke we had just seen being cleaned.



The second and third held the whole salmon, washed in a brine before being left for up to two years. The end result could be likened to prosciutto made from salmon. Mellow salmon flavor highlighted with a salty lick.







Here and there also were thin strips of salmon dried jerky style.



The forth floor was just for the view, if you squinted into the wind you could almost see Russia.
Back into the shop and a look at a few of the other products; cured octopus, monk fish liver pate with miso and a range of smoked fish, all so tasty.





........ is part of a dying art, not many young'uns want to live the life of a coastal salmon preserver when there's big city lights to be seen.



Still while it's around we want to promote and use the products as much as we can. We'll definitely be stocking and using his fish in the summer.

It just keeps pulling ... Fei, Sapporo.

It’s a gravitational force that just keeps pulling us in.

Fei is the perfect stop. Whether it be for a dessert after a mountain of Yakitori and a midnight pizza fix, a fantastic start to an evening with a few amuse for the bouche or in this case, for a special night out, some nice wine and the chef’s omakase course. What’s great is we keep going back and we’re always having something new.



The evening starts with a terrine. The ever-so-gracious Kumi going out of her way to explain to us what we’re eating and willing to go to any extremes to do so. With a little charades we gather it’s a bird … but then Kumi and her partner both harmoniously let out a little “Cooo ,, Cooo”. Ah-hah, Pigeon! It is a fine demonstration of a pigeon terrine, there are chunks of all the bits encased by a thin slice of bacon. It’s nestled in a romesco-like spicy sauce with some crisp watercress fanned out from one side.



Some crusty baguette arrives to accompany the terrine, and an Italian olive oil is poured at the table into a tiny little ramekin.



The house Prosseco, which is generously poured from a magnum pairs just beautifully with the terrine.

Pink soup. Pink wine. It makes perfect sense! We move onto a beautiful pink velvet beetroot soup. It tasted every bit of sweet red beets, served just warm and seasoned with only salt and pepper and finished with just a splash of cream. A large shard of homemade cracker and a delicious Italian rose have us both seeing pink!



Tatchi, or cod sperm, is the next star of the night. A clump of the stuff is pan-fried with a super crispy coating. It’s super fresh and although being quite creamy, it’s still quite firm. It’s sitting in a pool of gorgonzola sauce which marries together incredibly. A single round of fried potato giving it that little bit of extra crunch.



Okinawa always features as a point of interest on Fei’s menu. We’ve had from the little jewel of the south, banana, golden kiwi, baby vegetables and many more. Tonight is a showcase of Okinawa Spring vegetables. The risotto is made with a handful of the vegetables, the al dente rice clinging to them with a touch of cheese and butter. There’s an array of tempura’d baby vegetables on top a splash of balsamic reduction and a citrus salt.



As the risotto plate was whipped away we enjoyed a little break before the next course. We both patiently sat … and there was an amazing smoke smell that filled the room. It was a mellow wood, perhaps apple or cherry, with such a sweet smoke aroma. We were intrigued as to what was happening in the kitchen. Secretly I was hoping whatever the cause of the delicious smoke aroma filling the room was for us, but not expecting it. Smoking something during service is pretty dedicated, and being it was the only time of the evening we noticed it happening it was also pretty special. As the plate was placed in front of us we both indeed did feel special. Kumi tells us we’re about savor the delights of smoked Wild Hokkaido Duck. It was so beautiful, the coulors bringing us back to winter after our little Okinawa Spring break. And the duck, oh divine! Delectable! Delicious! The smoke was racing around my head and filling every crevice with each bite of the tender pink flesh. I made of point of putting down my cutlery with each bite to truly enjoy each moment. The dishes accentuation’s consisted of smokey pan juices, fresh shitake’s and 2 perfect spears of Treviso. A basket of crusty fruit bread arrives just in time to mop up all the delicious juices.



Kumi then gives us about 4 options for our pasta course. Again with above-and-beyond to explain to us one pasta dish, firstly snapping her hands together like a hungry shellfish, we kind of assumed it was some sort of mollusk. Not content, she returns moments later with a Seafood Handbook. Ah, surf clams! Kim jumps at that one. Plump morsels of the clam meat are tossed through a fresh saffron spaghetti with dried mini tomatoes and herbs.



It was a hard choice, but I settled on the gnocchi. The baby gnocchi silky smooth in my mouth, coated in butter, parmesan and cracked pepper.



We’re now getting pretty full … but when offered a Margarita pizza we’re not going to say no!



After a little break we start with the grappa. A glass of grappa di pinot noir is poured at the table for Kim. I enjoy a beautiful rose liqueur. So elegant!



Another thing we, well, me especially, cannot resist on a visit to Fei, pistachio gelato.



The other choice is always a tough one, as there’s always a new dessert on the menu, but tonight with the Zucotto on the menu, the choice was easy!



Every single time we have the pleasure of popping into Fei, we leave with a feeling of exhilaration and inspiration.

Until next time ...

Orizzonte, Pizza pizzaz.

"Orinzonte, ah very famous, not the best but very famous", is what we were told by the bar tender from Bar Espana when we asked if he knew it. We had planned a visit there and now we were doubting. Many places are famous, doesn't make them any good though. Still not ones to let others make up our minds we popped in anyway, situated two blocks off ekimine, you can spot the piled firewood outside as you approach.



Inside the kitchen has huge glass window that lets you see whats going on, (keeps the chefs on their best behavior).



We were seated and decided to have a few starters and a pizza, now in keeping with only wanting to write this blog in order to tell you about the good things we have eaten and seen and not be restaurant critics, (unless anyone out there is offering a job...hint hint.) I can't remember the starters not a thing. But the pizza, vavavoom, a big sexy thin crusted beast, topped with prosciutto and dollops of marscaopne.



This is why they are famous. The next time we go back, and there will be a next time, we'll just order two pizzas. Tasty Tasty Tasty.


Orizzonte
Minami 2 Nishi 5 Bldg.
1F, Minami 2 Nishi 5
Sapporo,
Japan 060-0062
+81 (0)11 222 0021

Bar Espana, Suskino, Sapporo

We’d spent the day wandering around Odori Park for the Yuki Matsuri (Snow festival) in Sapporo, and golly me it was cold.



After a shower and a freshen up it’s over to the Suskino end of town where we’re told the Ice Festival takes place. And indeed it does. Upon reaching the Route 36 / Suskino intersection as far as we can see it lit up with lights and there are some amazing ice carvings. We have a little wander around, we’re trying to find Blanc, which is a little wine bar over this side of town. We wander around for a while and don’t manage to find it (we later find out its upstairs in one of those vertical buildings housing a whole range of things, duh). It starts snowing quite heavily, which is very picturesque, but we’re now in desperate need of 3 things; shelter, drink and food.



Right on Suskino we see a very welcoming sign “Bar Espana”. And as we look in its bustling with Japanese couples and groups sitting and drinking but there’s a little spot at the bar for the 2 of us, perfect.



That’s the first thing sorted, now we both need that drink. There’s a fair sized wine list with about 12 by the glass. Kim starts with a glass of ’05 Motersierra Rosato. I decide on a fresh fruits sangria. (yes I know I said fruits, but it on the menu like that, and it’s cute.) A single ice cube is placed in the glass then topped with the red wine sangria mix. A generous spoonful of macerated berries is then added, which are sitting in a nice rich syrup. A splash of soda is added and then it’s checked for seasoning. All good! Then a little tray of fruit emerges from the fridge and artfully crafted and displayed on the top of the drink. A single orange segment, 3 perfect slices of apple and slice of kiwi fruit, a plump strawberry and 2 blueberries are threaded onto a tiny toothpick. As I pick up the glass I’m already impressed, its paper thin Japanese glassware and a fair size. I take the tip of the little toothpick and stir through the fruit then take a sip. It’s sweet, a little tart but still a nice robust wine flavour and is oh so soothing with the snow falling just beyond the door.



And lastly, food. We love these sorts of places, we just order a few things with no idea about where the night is heading. First up, we can’t resist the Spanish Anchovies with Bucket. We were both curious about this one …. A plate arrives with 8 plump little fillets that are doused in olive oil with a little chopped herbs and cracked pepper. Then there’s a little basket with 2 thick slices of crusty baguette, ahhh, bucket. It’s a case of JapEnglish translation and not some bucket filled with something exciting.



Mmm, pig. We’re already drooling over the leg of Jamon, sitting on the bar top that waiters are just slicing chunks from, filling little plates and delivering them all over the little tiny room.



But firstly, fried pig’s ears with garlic. They are deliciously chewy on the inside but a crisp crackly outside is coated in fried garlic. Mmm.



While we’re savouring each moment the delicious pigs ears are in our mouth, a plate of Iberico chorizo arrives. 12 paper thin slices are laid out on a little wooden tray. There’s a few caperberries, cornichons, parsley, dill and chervil to one corner and it’s spiked with a few toothpicks for easy eating.



Ah, rather than ordering a plate of sliced Jamon there was something else that caught our stomach. Jamon sandwich. We had seen this little beauty crafted in front of our eyes, the anticipation almost becoming too much ….. As one waiter is slicing chunks of Jamon from the bone someone else is grilling a nice chunk of baguette. The baguette is then rubbed with a garlic clove and a sliced tomato. The smell on the hot bread is amazing. It’s then drizzled with virgin olive oil and the sliced Jamon piled between the 2 slices. Wow! The hot, crusty, garlicy tomato baguette is such a nice contrast with the room temperature, chewy and smooth Jamon. Amazing.



We order some more drinks and some olives. There’s a jar of them sitting on the counter, a scoop of olives is placed in a boat and topped with some fried shallots. There were 3 different Spanish olives all marinated in a strong garlic oil and they were all delicious.



We see a paella being served behind us. They have about 5 different ones on the menu. It looks and smells incredible. We will be back some other time just for this ….



But for now, back to the drinking and tapa’s. Slices of barely cooked octopus are sprinkled with good Spanish paprika. They are resting a cute little terracotta pot. The octopus is so fresh and tender! And underneath we discover some boiled potatoes and garlic dressing.



We get talking to the bartender, who’s really nice and asking all about what we do / where we’re from. We then get to asking him about all the stuff that written around the walls in Japanese. Ah, of course, today’s specials. We manage to get a fair idea of what’s on offer with our little Japanese and his little English. Wagyu carpaccio. Eh? We need one of those now! The meat is so tender, I just love the way with each chew a good wagyu gives you the flavour from the fat, the texture from the meat and an all over body excitement … There’s a little squeeze of lemon, salt flakes, cracked pepper, a few mini tomatoes and more garlic oil (we won’t have to worry about vampires tonight!).



Well, we sure are glad we asked about the specials. The next up, some local Hokkaido deer that is seared to a golden crisp with a deep red gamey flesh. There’s a nice pink peppercorn sauce, roast garlic and purple potato.



While we’re sitting there enjoying our last drink, we ran into some customers I had served at Sekka. It was so funny as I was telling them they had to go to the Suskino end of town to see the ice carvings…. And there they were! They snapped a nice happy pic of us, we shared some stories over our extremely cold adventurous day we’d both had and then we confirmed directions to Blanc from our bar tender.



We did make it to Blanc and wished to continue the night with drinking and eating. The menu was all in Japanese and we tried to get some help. They blantantly said, No help, Omakase. We reluctantly agreed. Then we tried to order a bottle of wine. The first one, no stock. Second one, no stock. Third one, no stock. Finally we’re in luck, the ’96 Vin D’Alsace Pinot Blanc was in stock. But then the waiter tried to tell us we not like this wine, very very sweet. What the?? And the food was about the same…