Saturday, July 26, 2008

My Humble House, Singapore

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We have known of the Tung Lok group and it's mission of modern Chinese for quite some time now, and as we are in the neighborhood we are finally getting a chance to experience this first hand. We're have some pretty high expectations heading down to the Esplanade, the restaurant is housed in the famed "Big Durian" so there's already a sense of drama and theatre as you make your way into building.
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Tucked just in behind Space (another Tung Lok offspring) you enter through traditional Chinese doors into a uber modern minimalist bar/waiting area . Eclectic Euro-East style the signature in this the flagship of the Tung Lok empire.

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We were asked to wait in the bar area and offered a drink, upon looking at the menu we were immediately told our table was ready.....I guess we'll be seated then. We passed into the amazing looking dining room past all the amazing, stylishly mismatched chairs and tables set with full service
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and into Siberia............a small raised platform with simple tables and chairs that is set as we sit down and a fantastic view back into the restaurant we came to eat in. I found it really strange that not one of the 24 guests dining that night was actually seated in the main part instead it remained empty all night (maybe you can't really appreciate it if you're seated there).

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We were offered the menu and upon flicking through it noticed there was no Tasting Menu's on offer... this was kind of what we had in mind. So we asked about tasting menu's. They had 2 on offer the Someone is Singing Behind the Mountain at S$80++ p.p and The Delicate Snow Fell at Midnight at S$100++ p.p. The last page of the menu had about 2 dozen of the 'Sommelier's Picks' so we also asked to see the wine list, our waiter seeming a little surprised that we might want the wine and degustation menus.. After browsing we decided on the poetically named The Delicate Snow Fell at Midnight degustation. As a little palate starter a vase of elegant bread sticks with two dips, one a rich chilli and a ginger green onion sit on the table, both were tasty and certainly got the taste buds ready for what was to come.

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The Amuse Buche - Pan Seared Foie Gras and Bai Ling Mushroom with Fresh Garden Greens, a generous piece of foie gras sitting on a few mixed baby leaves and the fragrant seared bai ling mushroom a thin line of reduced balsamic smeared across the plate, all really delicious though I wish the leaves were more personal rather than looking pre brought salad mix.

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Then The Taste of Luxury - Braised Fresh Superior Shark's Fin with Crab Meat and Crab Roe accompanied by Hot & Sour Consomme. This, for both of us, was our first experience with sharks fin. It was like silk on your tongue, that required little effort to chew. It took on the flavour of the crab and roe and the consomme served along side was aromatic and perfectly balanced, with no taste out doing the other. This was a very clever little play on the traditional Chinese hot & sour soup.

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Dawn at Fisherman's Wharf -Fillet of Marble Goby simmered in Chinese Wine. A beautiful little piece of Marble Goby, commonly known as 'Soon Hock' with the Chinese wine in which it had been simmered emulsified into a rich sauce, scattered with fresh black fungus and coriander it was a delight for the senses. We were left with the same spoon throughout the meal, it was not changed once. We both found this a little odd, as diving in to finish of the beautiful poaching liquid, although the first taste was the flavours from the last course.

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Cool Pleasures were promised with a Refreshing Mango Sorbet. A small hiccup as it was painfully obvious it had been pre plated, the glass frosted over, the sorbet very icy and tasting unpleasantly fridgy. As I said there was only 24 people in the restaurant it's a shame as there's no need for this.

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Sensuous Comfort - Beef Short Rib in Honey Pepper Sauce and Asparagus. This was neither here nor there, the beef was tender but there was no excitement.

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Tender, Delightful, Divine is just what it was - Stir Fried Broccoli with Honsimenji Mushrooms. The broccoli was perfectly cooked and such a vibrant green uplifted by the slipperiness of the mushroom and the deep flavor of the stir fry sauce. Divine indeed!

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Night is in the Air - Winter Melon Noodles with Pan-Seared Scallops in Superlative Chicken Consomme. The best had definitely been saved for last.. the perfectly cooked scallops swimming in a luxuriant stock with the slightly herbal slippery noodles. This dish had it all ... flavor, texture, fragrance and visual appeal.

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Our Perfect Ending - Double Boiled Snow Pear with Hashima. This was a traditional dessert soup. Maybe it just wasn't our cup of tea or that we had seen other sweet endings we much would have rather had on the menu but this fell flat for both of us.

Okay, we were also a little envious of the two tables beside us being dazzled by impressive creations floating in on a dry ice fog ....

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As a whole, the food was amazing! The service was very up and down though for a restaurant of this calibre... on two occasions, courses were served while one of us was away from the table and in one case our waiter stood holding our next course just beside the table, waiting for someone to clear the previous. With the high expectations that we had, it was these little things that accumulated over the course of the evening that tarnished what could have been an incredible night. A great restaurant cannot stand on fantastic food alone ........... We won't let this put us off future foray's within the Tung Lok group.

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My Humble House
#02 27-29 Esplanade Mall
8 Raffles Ave
Singapore 039802
Open Lunch 11:45am-3pm and Dinner 6pm-11pm

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