Bun Cha, Hanoi

Back to the street that houses the infamous kem caramel today, I can feel it's gravitational pull as we walk down the street, it's quite hard not to just break into a run, crossing the street and feeding the sugar monster again but we have a purpose .. we're here for bun cha, a Northern lunch time specialty of grilled pork in a fish sauce served with rice noodles and the usual (but unusual) plate of fresh vegetation.

The place is a recommendation brought to us by the friendly folk at Cafe Hue. We tried bun cha recently and when we told them where we had gone the response was something like 'well that's ok if your into average food, but where you really want to go is....' so here we are. The place is full which is always a good start, as soon as we show interest a table and stools are produced on the side walk, it always seem to be of great amusement to the locals to see a 194cm guy trying to sit at these tiny street places and many double takes are done by passers by.



Two bun cha is soon arranged as well as a side of nem (Saigon spring rolls) which is the traditional accompaniment.

The bowl came generously full of two types of grilled pork, one marinated slices the other minced and wrapped in a leaf before being grilled, and all swimming in the garlicky, sweet sour fish sauce, (which also double as a dip for the nem). The pork is charred well, so little flakes wash off into the sauce adding an exquisite smokiness. Next to the pork is a huge pile of fresh noodles, a bowl of fresh cut chill and the herbs, oh the herbs, there is morning glory, Thai basil, lettuce, bean sprout, mint and half a dozen others we have no idea what they are.

You take some of the noodles and herbs and dip them into the sauce before eating with some of the pork. It's delicious! Our friends recommendation was right on the money this was a far superior bun cha than previously experienced. The nem are super crispy and full of pork, crab and noodles. All washed down with a cold beer this is one of the best lunch's we've ever had, every day Vietnam is fast climbing the list towards favorite county, now about that caramel......

Conviniently located opposite Kem Caramel
34 Hang Than
Hanoi

The 2nd Sin, Hanoi

We're in Hanoi right? Right. They have a great tradition of French cuisine right? Right. They are the true originators of fusion cuisine right? Right. Which is why we have turned to the web in search of some guidance from above to help find a fabled dish... The Vietnamese creme caramel, we've yet to see one in our daily fossicking. A quick search and thanks to stickyrice's photos we're sure this is what we want .. the picture looks glorious. Easy enough then, just take the address and walk to the place, it's in the old city so shouldn't be to far, or so we thought...... you see Hang Than isn't on any of the maps we have, we looked and looked at the maps, researched the web again and again only to find more tantalising blurbs of the greatness of this caramel and more vague directions, so once again it's back to Cafe Hue for some more local wisdom. As soon as we said where we wanted to go they knew the place and as fast as you could say 'two iced weasels to go please' we were off.

What follows next is a tale of savage gluttony, be warned.....

We follow the directions that lead us to Hang Than (it is there, just not named on our maps) then we see it, a small doorway with a cake stand out side, (don't be put off buy the cakes we weren't that impressed with the look of them either but that's not what your here for). We take a sit on one of the many microstools that litter this section of the side walk and ask for the kem caramel. It takes about fifteen seconds to arrive and really is a thing of beauty ... you could just sit and stare into it's glossy surface for hours, it's the kinda dessert you take home to meet your parents.

We gently probe our spoons into it's surface and a small creme glacier sheers off from the side to drop in to the caramel sea pooled around it...

Lifted into our mouths we have one of those moments where angels sing and the world evaporates away from you. Our whole world became the silky creme, the perfectly balanced bitter sweet caramel for a second time stopped and we were in heaven. And then all snapped back into sharp focus and spoons were dueled sword like and with quite some savagery to get at the remains of the custard. No really, it was that good! So what else have you got hidden away ?? we managed to get across. Next in quick succession we had a set yogurt laced with a jellied mango pudding..



a drinking yogurt with sticky black rice..



and a pannacotta...



All fantastic but we couldn't stop our mind from straying back to the caramel in the end we had to round off our binge with another. We then had to face the walk home heads swimming with endorphins and dairy overload, it's an interesting mix. As we walked past Cafe Hue the enquiries came did we find it? Yes. Did we think it was good? Yup. Did we go to the bun cha place opposite? Bun Cha? Fantastic, an excuse to be back on the same street tomorrow. Now if you'll please excuse us we have some serious lying down to do.

Duong Hoa Kem Caramen
29 Hang Than St
Hanoi

Toys and Treats, Hanoi

We have our friends at Cafe Hue to thank for directions to this little gem. Down on toy street in the old city in between all the piled up stuffed animals and lego mountains (sounds like the beginning to a fairy tale) ..



there are several women attending large steamers, not so large that you would notice them if your attention was directed at the plethora of toys and games, you might just wander past as we did the first time.



It wasn't until we were looking for them that they became apparent (hiding in plain sight as they were), so over we go and old hands at the 'point and smile' technique we are soon the proud owners of two large fluffy steamed buns.



Usually seen filled with BBQ pork when we go yum cha-ing, these were a little larger and filled with a deliciously savoury mix of pork mince and mushroom, then tucked away in the center a quails egg. Such a great combination and so good that you burn your mouth several times unable to wait the crucial seconds for the hot center to cool to a reasonable temperature.

A very frustrating theme is beginning to emerge since we've be here in Hanoi, in that all the food we have eaten is so good it makes going somewhere else to try new thing increasingly difficult.

It's a hard life really.

Steamed Pork Buns
Hang Dao, Old City
Hanoi, Vietnam

Wandering Rice Ball ..., Hanoi

Tired of walking and looking for any excuse to stop we pulled in at this amazing curb side eatery. This woman had the traditional carrying yoke with two baskets .. one full with the goodies, the other her kitchen but (and this is where it gets really cool) insted of simple banana leaf, newspaper or bamboo skewers for her fare she had little porcelin plates and polished silver cutlery. She had small steamed sticky rice flour dumplings filled with caramel pork and roast peanut topped with a smattering of sesame seeds, which were delicious, but to then have them placed on a small plate and have some cutlery appear.....well we were astounded.

As soon as we were done the plate and forks went into the dirty dishes container under the kitchen and she was back on the move. As we watched she got about fifty meters before some one esle had flagged her down. My only gripe is since she's so mobile how the hell are we going to find her again????



Rice ball lady
Some where in Hanoi
Open ???

In Love, Hanoi

Have we told you we love Vietnam yet? It's incredible the hustle, the bustle, the way food is not just a fuel but a way of life. You can't go five meters without seeing some sort of eatery even if it's just a few charcoal pots and a piece of sheet metal set on some tiny plastic chairs, which is where we found our selves today.

Just behind the puppet theatre (which is very cool, people) the empty sidewalks suddenly fill as if by some magic signal around 4pm grills and woks are dragged out, produce produced, seats thrown down and whammo your standing in the midst of a street long food court.

Of course we can fit a wee snack, it would be rude not to. So we go for some saigon rolls .. a spring roll filled with mushroom, vermicili, pork mince wrapped in a fresh rice paper wrapper and deep fried. Yummy!

This little place is the does a sideline in fresh pork, just sitting out next to the rolls, but you know it wil all be gone in a few hours with a fresh batch sitting there tomorrow and still healthy and kicking repeat customers coming back for more.

Often makes me wonder about the highly sanitised place 1st world law makers want us to live in.

Snack in hand we grabed a seat at a beer hoi stall on the corner and watched the locals enjoying their favorite past time.

So in love ....

Watching the world

Not about food but I just like the way these photos progress, the last of them were waving but they turned out a little blurry...bummer.

Hangin' with Bob, Hanoi

Wandering around the streets of Hanoi, the little hole-in-the-wall coffee shops are incredible. The mornings see them packed with locals, picking up a coffee where you will also close-by see a lady with a basket piled with fresh, crusty bread rolls. And there you have Hanoi's staple breakfast!

Of the transparent boxes piled high with different coffee's the one that caught both our attention was the "Weasel Coffee", so nicely advertised with an illustration of a weasel appropriately shooting coffee beans out it's butt. It is in fact Vietnam's version of the much famed Indonesian Kopi Luwak.

Conveniently located one street over from where we were staying, was Cafe Hue. Here we would stop each morning for a glass of iced-coffee weasel. A super strong shot is poured over ice with a good splash of condensed milk and a touch of sugar syrup and shaken vigorously. The result - a super smooth, slightly sweet, creamy and frothy slap-you-in-the-face wake up drink!

Each morning, and even the occasional afternoon, we would sit on these minuscule little chairs at the one minuscule little table at the front of Cafe Hue.

We quickly made friends with their lovely little dog, Bob, who was a Beijing Pekingese and was so very cute and, if not sleeping, always very friendly...

We also became friends with the whole family that worked there .. using this as a stop for the beginning of each day. It's here we would discuss our days plans, them surprised with our gastronomic adventures each day. On several occasions it was here we got great advice and even hand written notes, maps and directions as to where we must go.... Our last visit there to say goodbye, they were so busy packing big boxes with bags of coffee we didn't really get time to talk... One of the young guys came over to apologise for not having much time, as they had this massive order they had to get off to Singapore this morning. Awesome! So you can order and they will ship the coffee almost anywhere .....

One day when we stay put for a while and we need some coffee, we'll be hitting them up ...

Cafe Hue
26 Hang Giay
Hanoi, Vietnam
DT: 04-8282507
DD: 09121551552

Not Dogs, Hanoi

Everyday just down from our guesthouse a lady sets up with a small grill, a box of cucumbers and a pile of french sticks, the smell as you walk past from the grilling meat is intoxicating, you're kinda dragged by your nose across the road towards her.

When the skewers are nearly ready she splits and toasts a french stick lightly, then sandwiching the skewers deftly pulls out the wood to leave a filled roll, this is then topped with some freshly sliced cucumber a good whack of chilli and your good to go.

The first day we got one to share, it was glorious, proving that some times simple is really the best ... the second day we got one each as we sat looking over the photos Kat suddenly stopped eating "I'm sure that's Vietnamese for dog"........"I'm not hungry anymore" soon followed, I thought if this is dog it's delicious so I had one and a half that day. As soon as we got home we had a little flick through the phrase book it was actually pork, it was still delicious.

I don't know bout you but I wouldn't go out of my way to find dog but if it was there I'd give it a go just once at least. You can't knock if you haven't tried it!

The next day we had one each..

Cha ca la vong.....almost, Hanoi

OK then we're of to a grilled catfish place so famous that the the street they reside on is named after them. Cool!

We must've walked around every possible variation of streets before we found the place. Seriously the old city is like a maze .. you take a turn down a street you haven't been down then another and wayhey your back where you started with out even trying........I think even a week later I was still surprised at the places we would end up... Anyhoo I digress, there was a the big sign proclaiming the grilled fish so in we went, the staff were super friendly, not much English but they knew what we were after, Cha ca? was the enquiry .. affirmative nods plus with some pointing to some of the fresh rice noodles being made in the front door.

Nods and smiles all round we were in...sweet.

With but the briefest of waits a small electric hot plate is placed in front of us, along with bowls of chilli, roast peanuts, sliced onion, plates of fresh rice noodles a pile of fresh dill, spring onion and half a dozen Vietnamese herbs I have no idea about, two frothy sauces one made from fish sauce, one from shrimp paste.

.. and the catfish, thumb size chunks that had been grilled over coals.

We were looking around to see what to do next but the waitress was on to us, all smiles she placed a good whack of the herbs in to the pan on the hot plate the then some of the fish, turning the plate on she then gave us the pointing directions for when your ready mix the fish and herbs with your rice noodles add the chilli, nuts and onions, splash in a little sauce and go OK? OK.

The herbs began to sizzle in the oil giving off an amazing aroma the fish went in on top and we were good. We followed directions, a little of this a little of that then we at it.

I don't know how to describe how good it was mouth after mouth of amazing, the herbs aroma filling your head, the oil from the pan coating the fish and noodles, the salty hits from the sauce and wicked chilli spikes, how could we have never known about this before. We were packing the second round into the pan before the first was finished so there would be no wait to go again.

The rice noodles came in from the front. A plate of fresh steamed noodle topped with sweet sticky pork and more of the herbs and deep fried garlic.

It was fantastic but the Cha ca was stealing the show. Why haven't any of the Vietnamese place in Australia done this?? Maybe we don't visit the right places....

After all was done we crossed the road to take a photo of the shop front and stood next to the world famous Cha ca la vong the place we had come to visit ...oops. (note for young players the original uses charcoal braziers not hot plates.)

Still the place we were at was full locals and it was great. Next time we'll visit the real deal for a comparison....

Cha Ca Grilled Fish
Banh Cuon Tinh Ca Cuong Con Nquyen Chat
Just across the street from .....
Cha Ca la Vong
14 Cha Ca Street, Hanoi
84-4/825-3929

A cup full of coconut & custard, Hanoi

Wandering around the streets of Hanoi we spot a little hole in the wall that is full of people.. We stand out the front for a while observing what is being crafted and enjoyed. They do one thing and one thing only .. it's a cup of red beans, a rich custard and coconut water topped with shaved ice and freshly grated coconut. We settle on a tiny stool and enjoy! and are pleasantly surprised by the additon of more fresh coconut half way through ....

Pho, Hanoi

I love that in Asia you have a proliferation of places that serve one thing and one thing only, if they're good they get a lot of practice, the locals vote with their bellies. If you want duck rice you go to the duck rice place, if you want steamed buns you go to the steamed bun lady and if you want pho you go to pho.

On a street lined with very funky art galleries, shops selling American war (it's a different point of view from here) propaganda posters and a super cool ageing french?? cathedral

there lies a restaurant so proud of it's product it's the restaurants name. As usual we used the old howmanylocalsareeatingthere o'meter, the results came back good so in we went.

There's a menu, it says you can have pho, well no surprise there, but there is a good dozen types of protein combinations to choose from. From raw beef fillet and braised brisket to tendons and tripe (I love the tendons but really have to be feeling like tripe). There's a small kitchen encased in glass so you can watch your meal from go to pho, the whole process taking about 4 minutes, practiced hands slicing, tearing and ladling in a blur of speed.

The pho is great, I could be biased to our first pho actually eaten in Vietnam but it really is good, the broth deep and rich with spice, the beef tasty and tender and a good size with out being so big you can't finish it, on the table you have limes, pickled garlic, some mind blowing chilli's that seriously dented my ego and a big pile of the freshest herbs, each adding layer upon layer on to what was already amazing to start.

We immediately started debating about what we could miss out on eating as a result of returning here a couple of times............ oh the torture. I wish I could speak enough Vietnamese or they enough English so i could tell them how good it was but big smiles and and a two thumbs up is going to have to do.

Pho

Ly Quoc Su

Hanoi

Open Breakfast till gone

P.s across the road is an amazing cafe serving bahn mi with any part pf the pig you can imagine as well as an astounding array of pates and terrines. needless to say we felt well in need of a little afternoon lie down after this little gastroventure.